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Cartier Helm 1940s Jaeger LeCoultre Cartier Sector Dial Wristwatch


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Condition: Unworn
Scope of delivery: No original box, no original papers
Availability: Available now
Delivery time: 2-6 days
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Basic Info

Listing number 5OZXI2
Brand Cartier
Movement Manual winding
Case material Yellow gold
Bracelet material Crocodile skin
Year 1940 - 1950
Condition Unworn (Mint condition, without signs of wear)
Scope of delivery No original box, no original papers
Gender Men's watch/Unisex
Location United States of America, New York, New York, New York


Movement Manual winding
Movement/Caliber Jaeger LeCoultre Backwind Movement
Number of jewels 18


Case material Yellow gold
Case diameter 33 mm
Bezel material Yellow gold
Glass Sapphire Glass
Dial Silver
Dial numerals Arabic numerals


Bracelet material Crocodile skin


Limited Edition, Only Original Parts
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1940s Jaeger LeCoultre For Cartier Paris Sector Dial “Helm” 18kt Yellow Gold Wristwatch

The present watch is fully signed and serial numbered on the case, dial & movement respectively, with sharp French hallmarks to the lugs & exterior case. The Signed satin silvered Cartier Paris dial with gold baton and sector arabic numerals is also in excellent condition & further demonstrates the excellent preservation by its original owner.

Additionally, the timepiece has been recently serviced and is in perfect working condition as it has been tested for accuracy & timing.

Case Measurements :

33mm X 33mm
*Accompanied by Adjustable Dark Brown Leather Strap & 18kt Gold Buckle

The Cartier “Helm” Case Design Concept & History

According to our research twenty Cartier Helm watches from 40s and 50s are known. The present watch is believed to be one of the very first design variations from this era.Throughout the 1930s & 1940s Cartier produced these references in an extremely limited production with a few different variations of the “Helm” Case design utilizing variations in metal color and sometimes even incorporating diamonds set into platinum to produce a more dressier variation of the model and also in varying layout and sizes, all the majority being cased in yellow gold.

The revival of gold watches in round cases in the mid-1940s inspired Cartier to design models completely different from the classical Cartier style.
As part of the very famous watch design concepts such as the Santos, the Tank, the Tonneau or the Crash, the “Helm” model joins Cartier’s creative success(s) as one of the most innovative & iconic case designs of its era.
Perhaps one of the more interesting amongst these post war creations models, the “Helm” takes its name from the distinctive open work bezel which is shaped to look like a ship’s steering wheel or in different variations like a racecar driver’s steering wheel which displays the dial centered in the middle of the wheel for its user to observe as they wear it on their wrist.

The “Helm” distinctly stands out from other Cartier creations because of how much it breaks from traditional timepiece case designs of that era. Unlike, other notable Cartier designs such as the tank which is commonly accepted as a pillar for the firms horological design concepts, the Helm reference is always very easily identifiable which differers from how the case design modifications are applied to the different wristwatch series of the tank which really only have slight changes to their lines or size as exemplified by timepieces such as a cartier super tank which is larger and thicker or a cartier chinois which uses different lines on the case.

Celebrities such as Barbara Hutton and the Maharajah of Kapurthala owned examples of this model and Perhaps, One of the most famous examples of the Cartier “Helm” is one known have previously belonged to the Maharaja of Kapurthala .
During this time, the Maharajas of Kapurthala & Patiala were prized clients of Cartier and were well known for their special ordering of uniquely designed timepieces of jewelery & wristwatches.

Also interesting to note about the present timepiece is that it was sold by Cartier’ most premier subsidiary firm, none other than Cartier Paris’s Maison which is well regarded for handling some of Cartier’s most well thought and important creations during the mid century.
And additionally, unique as one of the earliest examples it differs from many other “Helms” which typically have smaller less significant lugs known as Vendome Lugs and the present one has beautiful sharply hallmarked flared lugs.

Eventually as the “Helm” models gained popularity amongst their elite clients, Cartier went onto to create the “Montre ronde squelette” off the iconic Helm design concept which was an additional open work round wristwatch and Cartier introduced this first model in 1950.

Recent Examples At Auction have sold for :

Christies October New York 1994 Lot 355 145,500 USD
Christies May Geneva 2014 Lot 115 62,500 CHF
Christies May Geneva 2004 Lot 244 33,460 CHF
Antiquorum October Geneva 2006 Lot 220 20-25,000CHF

Literature References:
For a similar "Helm" illustrated in The Cartier Collection - Timepieces, Editions Flammarion, p. 396.
For a similar “Helm: illustrated in Le Temps de Cartier by Jader Barracca, Giampiero Negretti & Franco Nencini, p. 209.

Additional Condition Report Specs
The dial is also perfect with no hairlines , dirt or water damage to the dial, numerals or batons and the case shows minimal signs of scratching or wear consistent with age. The case is sharply hallmarked and the lugs display clear hallmarks as well as the serial numbers. This indicates to the collector that the piece has been very rarely worn and remains in excellent condition given its vintage. The mechanism is fully working and has been recently checked for accuracy.

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Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.

315 Madison Avenue
3rd Floor
New York, New York, NY 10017
United States of America
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Tel.: [+1] 888-616-3330
Fax: Whatsapp # [+1] 516-313-4596 , WeChat ID#J278577
Mobile: [+1] 516-313-2263
We speak:
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Trusted Seller since 2017
86 watches listed
Number of watches sold via Trusted Checkout: 22

4.8 out of 5 stars  |  Reviews: 18

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