In recent years, and on the back of the watch market’s constantly evolving landscape, vintage watches have surged in popularity among experienced enthusiasts and newcomers alike. But what exactly is fueling this fascination, and how should you prepare ahead of your own vintage watch journey? Let’s delve into the key reasons why vintage watches are becoming a key part of any watch collection and some tips for buying a vintage watch.
Why Vintage Watches Are Trending
Icons Are Always Stylish
While it might seem obvious to say, icons from any industry are those that transcend time and remain popular, regardless of the stylistic lens through which they are being viewed. Take the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, for example; it is as stylish as when it first debuted in 1972. While its avant-garde design has become much more run-of-the-mill thanks to how many watches it has inspired, that exact popularity over the decades has enabled it to become truly timeless—a story that applies to almost every iconic vintage watch.
Exceptional Value for Money
Beyond just their stylish status, vintage watches generally represent exceptional value for money when compared to their modern counterparts. While it is certainly the case that vintage watches can fetch higher prices than modern watches, the bulk of the vintage market offers quite good value. From vintage precious metal dress watches being a fraction of the price of their modern siblings, to vintage sports watches costing significantly less, vintage watches don’t typically hurt the wallet as much as modern ones.
Also, as their supply is limited and production is no longer ongoing, their values tend to trend upwards consistently, with their market values being less volatile than modern watches. This allows collectors to rest easy, knowing that they haven’t bought into a flash-in-the-pan trend that will die after every brand milks it for all it’s worth.
Personal Style Tailoring
In an age where individualism is celebrated, vintage watches also allow buyers to express their personal style thanks to the plethora of designs, materials, and finishes at your disposal. As a result, collectors can find a vintage timepiece that resonates with their personality and style—one they probably won’t see on anyone else at the local watch meet-up.
Celebrity Influence
While a lot of vintage watch collectors might not want to admit it, celebrities are increasingly driving the popularity of vintage watches as they further expand their own horizons and move away from entirely new offerings. Icons like the Piaget Polo, Cartier Crash, Vacheron Constantin 222, and Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse have graced the wrists of famous personalities such as Tyler the Creator, Kanye West, Brad Pitt, Conor McGregor, and many others, further drawing attention to their distinct designs and rich histories. As more celebrities showcase their vintage timepieces on the red carpet and at galas, collectors and enthusiasts are increasingly inspired to seek out these remarkable watches for their own collections.
Our Five Tips for Buying a Vintage Watch
1. Find a Good Watchmaker You Can Rely On
Before making a purchase, it’s crucial to establish a relationship with a reputable watchmaker whom you can trust and who knows how to service and maintain vintage watches. Vintage watches may require maintenance or repairs that differ significantly from modern timepieces, and servicing vintage watches through the brands themselves can be a lengthy, expensive, and potentially fatal error given the fact that many brands replace patinated parts such as dials, bezels, and hands for like-new parts, erasing their vintage appeal and a significant chunk of their monetary value.
A skilled watchmaker can provide insight into the watch’s condition and help you understand any potential issues. They can also authenticate the watch, ensuring you get a genuine piece and not a clever counterfeit. Having a reliable watchmaker by your side can make the entire buying experience smoother, so don’t underestimate their importance.
2. Buy the Seller
When it comes to vintage watches, the seller plays a pivotal role in your buying experience. Research the seller’s reputation and history in the vintage watch community. Are they known for their honesty and integrity? Have they built a trustworthy brand on the back of numerous successful deals? Buying from established dealers with a good track record offers peace of mind, as they are more likely to provide authentic products and clear information about the watch’s honest condition. If you buy online, you should make sure that appropriate services, such as Chrono24 Buyer Protection, ensure that your dream purchase is not followed by a rude awakening.
Additionally, attending watch fairs and auctions can expose you to reputable sellers who specialize in vintage timepieces. These events often feature knowledgeable experts who can answer your questions, help you make an informed decision, and become valuable contacts for buying or selling watches in the future.
3. Originality and Condition Above All Else
When evaluating a vintage watch, prioritize originality and condition without exception. A watch that retains its original components—such as the dial, hands, bezel, bracelet, and case—holds much more value than one with replaced or aftermarket parts, even if it comes with its box and papers. Sure, a full set is always nice to have, but the watch is the most important part of the package. Do not compromise on originality or condition just to get a lesser watch that comes as a more complete set.
If you’re worried about reselling the watch and maximizing your returns, believe me when I say that condition and originality are the only two things buyers will look for. Boxes can be sourced separately, and papers are rare to find with vintage watches thanks to their age and how many hands they have passed through.
4. Research, Research, Research
Knowledge is power when it comes to buying vintage watches. Take the time to research the specific model you’re interested in, including its history, features, common issues, and all the different variations that were produced over the years. Understand the nuances between different variants of the same model, as small differences can significantly impact value—such as different dials, marks (Mk. 1, Mk. 2, etc.), bracelets, clasps, luminous material (did the brand swap from tritium to Luminova during production?), etc.
Online resources, watch forums, and books dedicated to vintage watches can provide a wealth of information. Engaging with fellow collectors, enthusiasts, and dealers can also deepen your understanding and help you avoid potential pitfalls. Being informed will empower you to make confident decisions and negotiate better deals. Some people dedicate their collecting journeys to learning about specific models—you can never know enough.
5. Try It Before You Buy It
One of the most critical steps in buying a vintage watch is to try it on before making a purchase. Vintage watches often feel very different from modern timepieces due to their design elements, such as hollow links, acrylic crystals, and smaller sizes. These factors can affect how the watch sits on your wrist and how comfortable it feels during everyday wear.
By trying on various models, and specifically the one you’re after, you’ll get a sense of the watch’s weight and presence, helping you choose one that complements your style and lifestyle. Don’t hesitate to visit local shops, vintage markets, or watch fairs where you can handle the watches and get a feel for their unique characteristics. After all, this is a significant purchase. You wouldn’t buy a car without test-driving it, so a vintage watch should be no different.
Conclusion
Buying your first vintage watch can be an exhilarating journey filled with discovery and excitement. By understanding the reasons behind the rising popularity of vintage watches and following these five essential tips, you’ll be well-equipped to make a thoughtful and informed purchase. Embrace their charm and let them add a touch of history, heritage, and uniqueness to your collection. Happy hunting!
