Do you know how to set the time on your automatic watch? It might seem banal, but you’d be surprised how many automatic movements have broken because the wearer didn’t know how to set the date correctly. This applies to automatic watches and watches with manual winding. The fact is that you have to be extremely careful as soon as you turn the crown. The crown is directly connected to the movement. For diving watches, you must first unscrew the crown and then screw it back in after setting to make the watch watertight again .
How to Set Your Luxury Watch Correctly
It is important that you always watch out for the date line, i.e. the period during which the watch is switching to the next day. For most watches, this is between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m. Manufacturers need to give the movement some leeway so that it doesn’t wear out. Some manufacturers, such as Rolex, have mastered an almost simultaneous date change at midnight with models like the Datejust. The movement is already in changeover mode during those hours, which is why you will already feel resistance at the crown. If you continue turning anyway, the damage has already been done and the gears may be damaged.
Success in 5 Simple Steps
But don’t worry!With these five simple steps, you can get your watch back to the right time.
- Let the clock run forward until the date changes.
- Turn until 5 a.m. or 5 p.m.! This means you are safely away from the date line and can always see the date window.
- Now set the date.
- Wait until the seconds hand has circled the dial once and pull the crown out completely.
- Now you can set the time
Still having problems with setting the date?
It could be that you have set the time incorrectly. Go through the steps again. If there are still problems, you should consult a professional watchmaker. Never tamper with the date mechanism, as this may damage it further.
Special Case #1: Moon Phases
Particular care should be taken with watches with moon phases. The mechanism is even more complex than with automatic watches and offers virtually no leeway. If you twist or are too rough with the mechanism, the damage is already done. Depending on the model, you can set the moon phase either with a pusher or via the crown. Use the full moon as a guide. Use the pusher to switch to the full moon. Now use a lunar calendar to find out on which day the last full moon was. Calculate the difference to today’s date. Press the pusher that number of times. The moon display is then set correctly. For example, say the last full moon was on 07/16/2019, and I want to set the watch on 08/06/2019. 22 days have passed since the last full moon. If I press the pusher 22 times, the moon phase will be set correctly. Setting the moon phase with the crown is directly linked to the date. So set the date of the last full moon. Then set the current date again so that the moon phase is now correct.
Special Case #2: GMT Watches
Being able to see a second time zone on watches like the GMT-Master II is one of the most useful functions that luxury watches can offer. But you also need to know how to set it correctly. This may vary from model to model, but the basic procedure is as follows:
- Pull the crown out to the second position. Now set the GMT hands.
- If you have a GMT hour hand, set it to the relevant reference time. Set the minute hand to your home time.
- Turn the crown back to position one to set the normal hour hand to your home time.
- Wait until the seconds hand has circled the dial once and pull the crown out to the second position so that the seconds hand stops.
- Turn the crown back in. The time is now set.
