Synonymous with reliability, innovation, and value for money, Seiko has been a cornerstone in the world of horology for over a century. This undeniably legendary watch brand has carved a niche for itself by blending stylish Japanese design with cutting-edge modern technology to create formidable watches that have successfully taken on the big Swiss brands several times over the course of its history. Whether you’re a watch-collecting novice or a seasoned enthusiast, understanding Seiko’s history provides a fascinating glimpse into how a humble Japanese company became a global powerhouse in the famously Swiss-dominated industry.
The Birth of Seiko
Founded in 1881 by Kintaro Hattori, Seiko began life as a watch and jewelry shop in Tokyo, where Hattori would sell and repair clocks. By 1892, Hattori had expanded his business by purchasing a disused factory in Tokyo so that he could produce his own wall clocks under the name Seikosha, which translates to “House of Exquisite Workmanship.” This marked the beginning of Seiko’s legacy in watchmaking, with the brand’s first pocket watch debuting in 1895, the Time Keeper.
The First Seiko Wristwatch
Following a few years of pocket watch production, Seiko introduced its first wristwatch, the Laurel, in 1913. This was a significant achievement as wristwatches were a relatively new concept at the time. Hattori was determined to be one step ahead of his competition, and so the Laurel set the stage for Seiko’s future innovations as Japan’s first wristwatch. However, branded under the ‘Seikosha’ name, the Laurel wasn’t the first ‘Seiko’ in its strictest sense. That came in 1924, after the company’s first factory was destroyed in a fire in 1923, prompting the brand to make a fresh start, and so Seiko as we know it was born.
The Rise of Grand Seiko
Founded in 1960 with the sole intention of challenging the idea that Swiss watchmaking was the be-all and end-all of the watchmaking industry, Grand Seiko has endeavored to create some of the most technically astute and wonderfully crafted timepieces possible. Brought to life as an up-market version of Seiko, Grand Seiko has grown into one of watchmaking’s worst-kept secrets, thanks to their incredible craftsmanship being so clearly on display in their dials, hands, and Zaratsu-polished cases.
Furthermore, Grand Seiko’s technical aspects are often capable of punching far beyond their league, with their iconic Spring Drive movements, impressive hi-beat movements, and over-engineered quartz movements. From dress watch beginnings, Grand Seiko’s catalog has expanded to include just about every watch type imaginable, with sports watches, dress watches, casual watches, and even high horology pieces like the Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon all being offered under the 60+-year-old umbrella.
Seiko’s Quartz Revolution
While Seiko is a storied brand for a whole host of reasons, one of the most pivotal moments in Seiko’s history came in 1969 with the introduction of the Seiko Astron. Launched as the world’s first quartz watch, the Astron revolutionized the watch industry by offering unparalleled accuracy compared to mechanical watches. This breakthrough positioned Seiko as a leader in watch technology and set a new standard for timekeeping.
Cheaper to produce and maintain than mechanical watches, far more accurate, and seen as the natural next step for watchmaking in an increasingly technological world, the Astron kickstarted what became known as the Quartz Crisis. Swiss watchmakers simply could not compete with the abundance of much cheaper quartz watches that flooded the market following the release of the Astron. Indeed, this is the watch that almost brought the Swiss watchmaking industry to its knees and propelled Seiko out from relative obscurity and into the wider public conscience.
The Diver’s Watch Legacy
While Seiko’s contribution to the Quartz Crisis is legendary, their contribution to the world of diving watches is also noteworthy. In 1965, Seiko launched their first diver’s watch, the iconic 62MAS. Designed to withstand the rigors of deep-sea diving, it quickly gained popularity among professional divers. Named the Seiko[MA]tic [S]elfdater (where MAS comes from), the 62MAS is powered by Seiko’s equally iconic cal. 62. Famed for its clean aesthetic and functional design, the Seiko 62MAS was an incredible dive watch for its time due to its abundance of lume, rotating bezel, and respectable 150m water resistance – just 50m less than Rolex’s far more expensive Submariner. Today, the 62MAS Big Crown is considered an incredible find for vintage collectors, given its discontinuation in June of 1967, ensuring it is a rare watch, especially when compared to other Seiko timepieces. In truth, the 62MAS laid the foundation for Seiko’s renowned Prospex line, which continues to be a favorite among diving enthusiasts today.
The Birth of the Spring Drive
Keeping up with their heritage of releasing industry-shaking movements, Seiko launched their ingenious Spring Drive movement in 1999, a short 30 years after the quartz movement. Perhaps not as disruptive as the quartz movement, the Spring Drive was still a notable step forward for the industry, given how it combines the best of mechanical and quartz technologies by offering the precision of a quartz watch with the craftsmanship and continuous sweeping second hand of a mechanical watch. This is achieved by using both the mechanical mainspring and quartz-based electronic parts in the movement that replace the balance spring and escapement. Since its debut in 1999, the Spring Drive has become a signature part of Grand Seiko’s identity and offerings.
Seiko Today – Embracing Technology
Seiko has consistently embraced new technologies to stay ahead in the competitive watch market. The introduction of solar-powered watches like the Seiko Solar series shows just how much the brand is committed to building new innovations rather than resting on its laurels. Likewise, they were one of the first brands to release a GPS watch that is set to your local time using just one button. Despite its focus on innovation, Seiko has never forgotten about its roots in traditional watchmaking or its Japanese heritage. The brand continues to produce watches crafted by skilled artisans who are often inspired by Seiko’s Japanese roots or Japan’s natural geography.
Seiko’s Enduring Popularity
Seiko’s ability to balance innovation with tradition has ensured its continued popularity. The brand’s watches are celebrated for their reliability, cost-effectiveness, and timeless designs. Collectors and enthusiasts worldwide continue to seek out Seiko watches, appreciating the brand’s rich history and ongoing contributions to the world of horology. Additionally, collectors often look at Seiko as where their passion for horology began, and so plenty of watch collectors who are now enjoying the higher end of what the industry has to offer will still dabble with and enjoy Seiko.
Value for Money
As mentioned before, one of Seiko’s strongest suits is just how cost-effective they are to buy. Offered at a wide range of price points, especially when you add vintage and neo-vintage Seiko into the mix, the brand encompasses just about everything the industry has to offer, from complications, designs, and use cases. So no matter what it is that you want or how much you have to spend, Seiko has always and will long into the future have something for you.
