5 minutes

The New Cartier Releases From Watches and Wonders 2023

By Jorg Weppelink

The New Cartier Releases From Watches and Wonders 2023 (image: Cartier)

Cartier is hot property, and has been for a couple of years now, as the brand has proved its relevance in the watch world, time and time again. Cartier has a rich history full of iconic models that have inspired the company to recreate them for a contemporary audience. Plus, the Cartier style has shown itself to be the perfect vehicle for combining new, more modern creations with up-to-date forms of execution, while remaining true to the brand’s classic design principles. This week, Cartier treated us to a wide variety of new watch releases for both men and women. Let’s take a look at some of the highlights.

The Cartier Tank Normale

Without a doubt, the most remarkable new release is the Cartier Tank Normale. The new Tank Normale is part of Cartier’s Privé collection launched in 2016, a line of reimagined classics from the brand’s archives made especially for Cartier collectors. As such, the timepieces in the Privé collection are produced in limited numbers and only available to a lucky few. Nevertheless, every time we’ve been given a new Privé model, the watch has taken center stage, demonstrating year after year how rich Cartier’s tradition of watch design is.

Cartier Tank Normale
Cartier Tank Normale (image: Cartier)

This year, Cartier is turning back the clock to 1917, the birth year of the very first Cartier Tank. The brand has reimagined the original Tank and created a version that honors the original proportions, shape, and crystal of the watch icon. The result is simply stunning. The Tank Normale is available in yellow gold or platinum and measures 32.6 × 25.7 × 6.85 mm. The timepiece comes on a leather strap – brown for the gold version, black for the platinum – or a gold or platinum bracelet to match the case. The new seven-piece link bracelet is an absolute peach. The real stand-out for me is the platinum version, which looks almost understated with its predominantly satin-brushed finish. But don’t be fooled: The bevels on the case and bracelet feature a polished finish, for extra depth. A ruby cabochon set in the crown tells you it’s a platinum watch.

The Tank Normale will be produced in limited numbers. The platinum and gold bracelet variants will be limited to 100 pieces, and Cartier will make 200 leather strap versions. The Maison also created a skeletonized version that will be produced in a very limited run of 50 copies. Lastly, there will be a diamond-set skeletonized edition of just 20 pieces.

The Cartier Tank Américaine

The second big release for Cartier in 2023 is the return of the Tank Américaine. This modern reinterpretation of the Tank was first introduced in 1989, to answer the demand for a bigger Tank as watch dimensions were growing at that time. The new Tank Américaine gets a more slender look compared to its predecessors. The new line will host a total of 11 new models in stainless steel and rose gold, in three different sizes: mini, small, and large. The mini and small sizes will come on a bracelet and be available in special diamond-set editions as well.

Cartier Tank Américaine
Cartier Tank Américaine (image: Cartier)

Overall, the new Tank Américaine is slimmer and curvier than its antecedents, and thus perfectly suited to modern tastes. The mini and small models feature a sunray dial with Roman numerals and come equipped with quartz movements. The large models will be powered by the new automatic caliber 1899 MC, which is thinner than previous automatic movements. Consequently, the new Tank Américaine Large is only 8.6 mm thick, making it super easy to wear. Plus, the new automatic movement demonstrates that, for Cartier, watches aren’t only about style: the technological developments here give the illustrious Tank Américaine a renewed charisma that will win over many enthusiasts.

The Tank Louis Cartier

In the last two years, Cartier has put a lot of focus on the Louis Cartier series, and we’ve seen new additions every year that look amazing. In 2022, the Maison released the yellow gold Tank with a completely black dial and strap, for a stunning, stylish look. Now the brand is adding red and green versions with gold cases. Both yellow gold large editions measure 33.7 × 25.5 mm and feature lacquered dials adorned only with the Cartier logo and “Swiss Made,” and come on color-matched leather straps.

Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
The Tank Louis Cartier (image: Cartier)

We’re also getting two “Tri-gold” models with dials that feature gold motifs. These timepieces pay tribute to the vibe of the 70s, and are rather playful in comparison to the two other new models. Both watches are also large models, and all four timepieces are powered by the manual caliber 1917 MC. I’m a big fan of the monochromatic Louis Cartier models, so I love seeing these new red and green versions join the collection.

Tank Louis Cartier
The Tank Louis Cartier (image: Cartier)

The Santos-Dumont

Cartier introduced three new XL models to their Santos-Dumont collection that are made from precious metals and feature spectacular dials. The new watches are available in yellow gold, rose gold, or platinum, and there are also two large models that come in yellow gold or yellow gold and steel. The Santos-Dumont XL editions measure 43.5 × 31.4 mm.

In a surprise twist, the dials feature Roman numerals cut directly from jasper, jade, and dumortierite. The color of the numerals – green for rose gold, blue for yellow gold, and red for platinum – matches the cabochon. Inside the XL cases, Cartier equips the watches with their manual mechanical caliber 430 MC. All three models will be produced in a limited run of 200 pieces and come on matching leather straps, to refine the amazing design.

Cartier Santos Dumont Collection (Image: Cartier)
The Santos-Dumont collection (image: Cartier)

In addition to the three XL models, Cartier also announced a large model in yellow gold with yellow gold Roman numerals. The dial and leather strap are blue, resulting in a super stylish timepiece. A two-tone model with a stainless steel case and yellow gold bezel is also available; this version has a gray dial and matching gray leather strap.

Wait! There’s more: Cartier also unveiled a trio of skeletonized Santos-Dumont models with a new movement. The absolute centerpiece of the three is the yellow gold variant with a blue lacquered case and bezel and blue leather strap. It’s the perfect combination of modern and classic style, and an immediate eye-catcher. The other two models in rose gold and stainless steel are more toned-down, but still boast impressive skeletonized movements. The new in-house caliber 9629 MC features a micro-rotor at 8 o’clock – proving once and for all that Cartier excels at skeletonized watches.

OK, folks! That concludes our selection of new Cartier releases for 2023. These watches will be available at different points throughout the year, so keep your eyes peeled for the release dates and MSRPs of your favorite models. Whatever your personal pick, Cartier has shown once again why they’re one of the most remarkable and most respected brands in the industry. When it comes to variety and endlessly creative designs, Cartier is a real showstopper.

About the Author

Jorg Weppelink

Hi, I'm Jorg, and I've been writing articles for Chrono24 since 2016. However, my relationship with Chrono24 goes back a bit longer, as my love for watches began …

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