Switzerland has been the heart of the watch industry for centuries. However, the Swiss are not the only ones who can create great luxury watches. Another country with a rich history in watchmaking is the United States. This article will shine a light on the history of American watchmaking and what makes it so special. Then, I will introduce you to five of the best American watch brands.
The History of American Watchmaking
The United States had a thriving watch industry in the 1800s and 1900s. It played a pivotal role in the worldwide automation and mass production of watches. By the late 1800s, they had impressed the Swiss by producing watches in high numbers, and the quality was also on par with Swiss watches. Unfortunately, the Great Depression and World War II halted the thriving American watch industry in the first half of the 20th century, allowing the Swiss to reclaim their leading position in watchmaking.
The Current American Watch Landscape
A look at the current landscape of American watch brands tells us two main stories. First, many leading American watch brands were bought by foreign companies over time. The most famous example is Hamilton, now part of the Swatch Group. Other examples include Bulova and Ball Watch Company. Additionally, many traditional watch companies have disappeared over time.
However, the great thing about the current American watch landscape is that many new, young brands are creating amazing timepieces. For our Top 5, I have selected a mix of well-known and smaller brands that represent just a small sample of the many great American brands out there.
Timex
The first brand on our list is Timex. While a Dutch holding company technically owns the brand, it still has its main offices in the United States. The Timex name has been around since 1950, but its history dates back to the 1850s as the Waterbury Clock Company. Nowadays, the brand is known for producing affordable watches for everyone.
Many Americans will know the Timex name from the famous Mickey Mouse watches that the brand created in the past. Nowadays, Timex still collaborates with popular franchises. A good example is their line of watches created with the Peanuts franchise. Besides that, the brand creates some great affordable mechanical watches inspired by military and dive watches from the past. Some examples are the M79 and Waterbury lines of dive watches and the Marlin and Expedition North military-inspired watches. My absolute favorite is a collaborative effort that Timex released recently. The Timex × The James Brand Automatic GMT is a stylish, lightweight titanium GMT that lets you track the time in two time zones. It is an awesome example of the great things that Timex has been up to in recent history.
Benrus
Another big name in American watchmaking history is Benrus. The brand was founded in 1921 by Benjamin Lazarus and his two brothers in New York City, where the brand still resides. Benrus supplied the American troops with military field watches during the Vietnam War in the 1960s. Additionally, the brand supplied the US Navy with its iconic Type I and II watches in the 1970s. But Benrus has created various styles of watches for both the US military and regular customers. One of the most famous Benrus owners was John F. Kennedy, who was gifted a custom-made watch in 1963.
Nowadays, the brand mainly focuses on creating modern reissues of the military classics from the sixties and seventies. You can still buy the Type I and II and the DTU-2A/P military field watch. My favorite is the Series #3061, a civilian version of the brand’s classic DTU-2A/P that was initially released in the 1960s. Steve McQueen famously wore it in the 1968 movie Bullitt. The modern reissue of that watch perfectly celebrates McQueen’s impeccable style in that movie, making it a fan favorite.
Autodromo
From two classic American brands, we’re moving on to a younger brand founded in New York in 2011. That’s when Bradley Price started his adventure in the world of watches with timepieces inspired by the world of motoring. Over the last decade, Autodromo has become a favorite among watch fans and motoring enthusiasts.
The great thing about Price’s designs is that they all differ greatly, but they are all inspired by the rich history of the world of classic cars. A great example is the traditional Prototipo Chronograph inspired by the classic racing chronographs from the 1960s. But with the Group C model, Autodromo just as easily surprises you with a classic race-inspired digital watch. My absolute favorite is the Corsica Blue version of the Group B series. The design is inspired by the Group B rally cars from the 1980s, and in that specific color, it gets a great injection of summery Miami vibes.
J.N. Shapiro
Moving on to J.N. Shapiro, a brand that was founded in 2018 and focused on high-end watchmaking in the great Swiss and British tradition. The brand’s founder, Josh Shapiro, and his team are based in Torrance, California, and focus on creating US-made mechanical watches. By that, they mean that the goal is an integrated manufacturer that can produce every part of the watch in the United States. That doesn’t happen overnight, so Shapiro started out creating his Infinity series, which included German cases and movements. But what immediately stood out was Shapiro’s amazing craftsmanship in creating high-end watches.
The J.N. Shapiro Resurgence introduced last year showed that the brand could be one of the leading independent high-end watch brands. Shapiro is a master at creating some of the most beautiful engine-turned dials. On top of that, the team of eight watchmakers created 148 out of 180 watch components in their California workshop. This unique craftsmanship does not come cheap, with the starting prices of Resurgence ranging from $70K to $85K. But for that money, you have a say in the case material and the dial color, making it a highly personalized luxury timepiece that showcases the great skill of J.N. Shapiro.
Weiss
Our last entry for this Top 5 list is Weiss Watch Company, or simply Weiss. It is the brainchild of LA-based watchmaker Cameron Weiss (read a more detailed Portrait here). After finishing his watchmaking training in Miami, Weiss worked for Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin. While at Vacheron Constantin, he also worked on his own creations in his spare time. This led him to founding his own brand in 2013 and selling his first ten watches within a week. Just like J.N. Shapiro, Weiss is based out of Torrance, California.
With his brand, Cameron Weiss focuses on creating timepieces inspired by old diving gear and vintage aviation instruments, particularly those from the 1950s. The brand’s collection currently consists of a 38mm Standard Issue Field Watch, a 42mm Standard Issue Field Watch, and a 42mm Standard Issue Dive Watch. Out of the three, the 38mm field watch is my favorite. I especially love the Latte dial variant, which has a stylish presence on a tan leather strap. It is the perfect example of what makes Weiss Watch Company a brand to watch.
