U-Boat

Retro Design for the New Millennium

U-Boat watches each have their own personality yet are united by their hefty designs. Founded by Italo Fontana, this Italian luxury watch manufacturer crafts timepieces inspired by the watches Fontana's grandfather, Ilvo Fontana, designed for the Italian navy in 1942. Like their historical predecessors, U-Boat watches stand out with their clean, easy-to-read dials and robust cases.

One of the most unique details shared by many models is the prominent crown guard. It's actually a cap that screws down over the crown. A hinged bracket keeps the unscrewed cap attached to the case. Of course, this mechanism is itself rather imposing. However, these watches are still remarkably comfortable on the wrist since the crown is located on the left side of the case.

At 45 to 56 mm in diameter and 15 mm thick, U-Boat wristwatches are among the largest of their kind. In 2019, the manufacturer also introduced a series of 38-mm timepieces that are largely geared toward a female audience. Regardless of their size, U-Boat offers their different models in a wide range of materials. These include stainless steel, gold, titanium, and bronze, as well as less conventional materials like sterling silver, carbon, ceramic, and tungsten. Each watch features scratch-resistant sapphire crystal and is water-resistant to at least 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft), with the U-42 collection boasting 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft) of water resistance.

U-Boat produces their timepieces in Italy. However, they source both their quartz and automatic calibers from Swiss movement manufacturer ETA. While U-Boat modifies the calibers to their specifications, they generally forgo any additional decoration. These are tool watches, after all.

Reasons to Buy a U-Boat Watch

• A model inspired by Italian military watches from the 1940s
• Distinctive crown guard
• Crown on the left-hand side
• Makes its presence known (38 to 56 mm in diameter)
• Reliable Swiss calibers from ETA

Prices at a Glance: U-Boat Watches

Oversized Tool Watches for Fashion-Forward Men

The U-Boat catalog can generally be split into two categories. On the one hand are the robust and masculine timepieces, and on the other you'll find collections with rather elegant designs.

The watches of the Chimera collection firmly belong to the first category. With cases measuring 15 mm in height and between 43 and 48 mm in diameter, their size alone is enough to demand attention. Then there's the design. Five clearly visible screws hold the bezel, main case, and case back together. U-Boat's characteristic crown cap and bracket mechanism further underscore this timepiece's impressive appearance. Thanks to their bronze cases, models like the Chimera 46 Bronze Sapphire ref. 8083 call to mind images of vintage diving helmets.

Those who prefer more modern designs should take a closer look at the refs. 8057 and 8065. U-Boat crafts these timepieces out of materials like carbon and tungsten, bringing the retro look into the 21st century.

When it comes to dials, the Chimera collection has it all – from the clean tool watch look to intricate skeletonization. Prices for three-hand Chimera watches fall between 4,200 and 6,700 USD. Chimera chronographs use a modified Valjoux 7750 movement and cost anywhere from 5,400 to 8,400 USD, depending on the model.

U-42: Not Your Average Diving Watch

If you're looking to make a statement with your diving watch, the U-Boat U-42 more than fits the bill. These timepieces measure a staggering 46 to 53 mm in diameter. In addition to simple three-hand watches and {lex-chronograph,chronographs}, you'll also find a model with a GMT display. The entire collection is united by its unconventional porthole design with a crown resembling the kind of lock used on ship windows. You can wind and set the watch by releasing the lever and flipping the crown up. The use of rivets as indices on the rotatable diving bezel completes the nautical look.

Each U-42 is made of lightweight yet robust titanium and comes with either a sand-blasted finish or a black coating. For something truly one of a kind, you should check out the U-42 Unicum editions. This model goes through an artificial aging process, meaning no two timepieces are the same.

You can purchase a three-hand U-42 for as little as 3,500 USD. Versions with a chronograph or GMT function cost between 4,000 and 4,300 USD. Unicum watches are the most expensive with prices starting around 5,800 USD.

Flightdeck and Thousands of Feet

The Flightdeck and Thousands of Feet collections are perfect for fans of pilot's watches. Their hands and dials are modeled after the instruments found in historical aircraft. With its rounded square case and four drilled holes, the Thousands of Feet looks like it was plucked straight off a dashboard. By comparison, the round Flightdeck pilot's chronograph feels downright classic. However, its large crown and bracketed cap mean there's no mistaking it for anything other than a U-Boat timepiece.

The Thousands of Feet is available in brushed stainless steel or with a black PVD coating and demands between 2,000 and 2,200 USD. The version with a black stainless steel case and 18-karat rose gold bezel is much rarer and, therefore, more expensive. This model requires an investment of about 10,800 USD.

The Flightdeck also comes in your choice of brushed or black stainless steel. The standard editions change hands for between 2,400 and 2,700 USD. U-Boat also offers a ceramic Flightdeck model, which costs a solid 3,700 USD. The top models bear the reference numbers 7286 and 6248. The 7286 is made of sterling silver – Italo Fontana's favorite material. Its surface features artificial cracks filled with tiny black diamonds. You can call one of these beautiful timepieces your own for about 14,000 USD. Then there's the ref. 6248 with its solid yellow gold case, crown, and crown guard. If you're interested in this model, be sure to have around 22,500 USD on hand.

U-Boat Watches for Formal Occasions

U-Boat has proven time and time again that large military-inspired designs and elegance are not mutually exclusive. The manufacturer produces several collections in this style, of which the Classico is the most comprehensive. Clean, easy-to-read dials define these timepieces. Large Arabic numerals at 4, 8, and 12 immediately catch the eye, while the other hours are marked using narrow line indices. Like their tool watch brethren, each Classico model features an oversized crown with a hinged bracket.

The Classico collection contains everything from simple three-hand watches like the ref. 8105 and chronographs like the ref. 8077 to sportier editions like the ref. 9099 with a second time zone and a bidirectional 12-hour bezel. In terms of case material, you can choose from stainless steel, bronze, titanium, or tungsten.

Classico prices vary by model and functionality and range from 1,800 to 2,900 USD.

Filled With Oil: The Capsoil

The Capsoil collection is unlike any other in U-Boat's portfolio. While they share the same basic dial design as the Classico, these watches feel much more delicate than their sister models. This is largely due to their lack of a bezel. Instead, the highly domed sapphire crystal seamlessly transitions into the stainless steel case, and the dial stretches the watch's full width. By filling the watch with oil, U-Boat heightens the effect of this already unorthodox design and its intense matte black dial. A single air bubble both balances the pressure within the watch and adds even more depth to the dial.

Like every U-Boat watch, the crown is located on the left-hand side. However, in this instance, U-Boat's designers have forgone the large crown and cap in favor of a nearly imperceptible flat crown. As a result, this timepiece feels especially refined and almost like a dress watch despite its 45-mm case.

The Capsoil is one of a handful of U-Boat watches with a quartz movement. You can view the movement at work through the sapphire crystal case back. There are both three-hand and chronograph models available in either brushed stainless steel or with a black DLC (diamond-like carbon) coating. Three-hand timepieces sell for between 1,300 and 1,500 USD, while chronographs cost slightly more at 1,400 to 1,700 USD.

U-Boat: A Young Company With Deep Roots

According to company legend, Italo Fontana founded U-Boat in 2000 after discovering sketches and drafts for robust wristwatches left behind by his grandfather, Ilvo Fontana. The Italian navy had commissioned Ilvo to design the watches in 1942; however, they never reached production.

Italo, himself a successful designer for the family's fashion line, was so fascinated by his grandfather's designs that he decided to make those decades-old dreams a reality. However, after establishing his new company, it would take seven years before U-Boat was able to present their first complete timepiece. Brand developer and creator Mounir Moufarrige helped Fontana's budding business make a name for itself. Moufarrige had previously guided the development of other major brands like Alfred Dunhill, Montblanc, Chloé, and Panerai.

Today, U-Boat's unconventional creations enjoy widespread popularity, including among the Hollywood elite. Sylvester Stallone, Arnold Schwarzenegger, Tom Cruise, and Bar Rafaeli are all frequent U-Boat wearers. The music industry also has plenty of U-Boat fans, among them James Blunt, Kiss legend Paul Stanley, and Rammstein frontman Till Lindemann.