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Patek Philippe Chronograph 5170P-001
TOP
Patek Philippe Chronograph 5170P-001
£58,950
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
145
UK
Montblanc Herren Uhr Automatik Wecker Reveil Ref. 7026 Neu OVP
TOP
Montblanc Herren Uhr Automatik Wecker Reveil Ref. 7026 Neu OVP
£1,507
Seller
Thomas Schiesl
182
DE
Rolex Sky-Dweller Gold/Steel White Dial LC-EU
TOP
Rolex Sky-Dweller Gold/Steel White Dial LC-EU
£13,126
Free shipping
Seller
Tradeluxe Uhrenhandels GmbH
42
AT
Rolex 1675 GMT-Master MK2, Beautiful Creamy patina
TOP
Rolex 1675 GMT-Master MK2, Beautiful Creamy patina
£12,950
Seller
M&J Watches Ltd
19
UK
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Gold
Straight from the manufacturer
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Gold
£22,199
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Hublot Super B B1921.1
TOP
Hublot Super B B1921.1
£3,250
Seller
Vintagejeweller
 
UK
IWC Big Pilot Bronze
TOP
IWC Big Pilot Bronze
£9,371
Seller
Harley's Time LLC
47
US
Meistersinger Perigraph ltd. Edition Diapharm No. 2
TOP
Meistersinger Perigraph ltd. Edition Diapharm No. 2
£975
Seller
Diapharm GmbH & Co. KG
 
DE
Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver Black sea Chrono
TOP
Ulysse Nardin Maxi Marine Diver Black sea Chrono
£7,893
Seller
CANTELI JOYEROS SL
 
ES
Patek Philippe World Time 5131/1P-001
Patek Philippe World Time 5131/1P-001
£124,995
Seller
UK Time Legend
 
UK
Rolex Datejust
Rolex Datejust
£2,394
Seller
chrono v8 ltd
 
UK
Harry Winston Z5 World Time Tourbillon Zalium
TOP
Harry Winston Z5 World Time Tourbillon Zalium
£32,390
Seller
Raffi Boyadjian Watches Inc.
12
US
Patek Philippe 5271p
Patek Philippe 5271p
£245,000
Seller
UK Bullion Ltd
 
UK
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Tech Gold
Straight from the manufacturer
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Tech Gold
£13,319
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Breitling Chronomat 44 Raven Watch
TOP
Breitling Chronomat 44 Raven Watch
£4,500
Seller
Vintagejeweller
 
UK
Laco B-Uhr (Beobachtungsuhr) WW2 Luftwaffe Observers Wristwatch
Laco B-Uhr (Beobachtungsuhr) WW2 Luftwaffe Observers Wristwatch
£3,495
Free shipping
Seller
Finest Hour Vintage Military Timepieces & Collectibles
 
UK
Rolex Submariner Date
Rolex Submariner Date
£6,450
Seller
Neil Watches
 
UK
Eberhard & Co. Chrono 120 ÉME Aniversario
TOP
Eberhard & Co. Chrono 120 ÉME Aniversario
£9,135
Seller
CANTELI JOYEROS SL
 
ES
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26331IP.OO.1220IP.01
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26331IP.OO.1220IP.01
£32,795
Seller
UK Time Legend
 
UK
Rolex Submariner 1680 red box and paper
Rolex Submariner 1680 red box and paper
£21,729
Seller
chrono v8 ltd
 
UK
Rolex Day-Date
Rolex Day-Date
£14,500
Seller
A. W. Porter & Son Ltd
 
UK
Rolex Daytona
Rolex Daytona
£10,950
Seller
Christopher Poel Watches and Jewellery
 
UK
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Titanium - Red
Straight from the manufacturer
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Titanium - Red
£8,879
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Rolex 14060M Submariner No Date - Black Dial - 4 liner "Z"...
TOP
Rolex 14060M Submariner No Date - Black Dial - 4 liner "Z"...
£5,237
Free shipping
Seller
LovinTyme
68
US
IWC Mark XI 6B/346 RAF Pilots Wristwatch c.1951
IWC Mark XI 6B/346 RAF Pilots Wristwatch c.1951
£5,795
Free shipping
Seller
Finest Hour Vintage Military Timepieces & Collectibles
 
UK
Rolex Yacht-Master
Rolex Yacht-Master
£5,500
Seller
Neil Watches
 
UK
Omega Geneve
Omega Geneve
£650
Seller
Martin Wilkinson Ltd
 
UK
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G-001
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G-001
£35,295
Seller
UK Time Legend
 
UK
Rolex Day Date 18238 lapis
Rolex Day Date 18238 lapis
£20,842
Seller
chrono v8 ltd
 
UK
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M
Omega Seamaster Diver 300 M
£1,995
Seller
A. W. Porter & Son Ltd
 
UK
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moon To Mars
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moon To Mars
£3,800
Seller
Wrights The Jewellers
 
UK
Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Carbon
Straight from the manufacturer
Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Carbon
£15,983
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Rolex 5500 Model 14K/SS Oyster Perpetual - Chocolate Polar...
TOP
Rolex 5500 Model 14K/SS Oyster Perpetual - Chocolate Polar...
£2,180
Free shipping
Seller
LovinTyme
68
US
Cyma W.W.W.  'Dirty Dozen' British Army Wristwatch c.1945
Cyma W.W.W. 'Dirty Dozen' British Army Wristwatch c.1945
£1,795
Free shipping
Seller
Finest Hour Vintage Military Timepieces & Collectibles
 
UK
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
£3,895
Seller
Avanti Fine Jewellery
 
UK
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
£2,800
Seller
Martin Wilkinson Ltd
 
UK
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26405CE.OO.A002...
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph 26405CE.OO.A002...
Price on request
Seller
UK Time Legend
 
UK
Rolex 16710 stick dial
Rolex 16710 stick dial
£8,868
Seller
chrono v8 ltd
 
UK
Rolex Sea-Dweller
Rolex Sea-Dweller
£5,650
Seller
A. W. Porter & Son Ltd
 
UK
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297 Titane
Straight from the manufacturer
Ateliers deMonaco Tourbillon Oculus 1297 Titane
£51,884
BrandBoutique Member
Les Ateliers deMonaco SARL
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite 3DTP Carbon
Straight from the manufacturer
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite 3DTP Carbon
£16,871
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Rolex Ladies 2tone Oyster Perpetual Watch - MOP Diamond Dial -...
TOP
Rolex Ladies 2tone Oyster Perpetual Watch - MOP Diamond Dial -...
£1,889
Free shipping
Seller
LovinTyme
68
US
Lemania Series I Military Chronograph Wristwatch c.1945
Lemania Series I Military Chronograph Wristwatch c.1945
£3,495
Free shipping
Seller
Finest Hour Vintage Military Timepieces & Collectibles
 
UK
Rolex Lady-Datejust
Rolex Lady-Datejust
£6,150
Seller
Avanti Fine Jewellery
 
UK
Rolex GMT-Master II
Rolex GMT-Master II
£6,700
Seller
Vintagejeweller
 
UK
Richard Mille RM 011-02 Jet Black NTPT Carbon (88 Pieces)
Richard Mille RM 011-02 Jet Black NTPT Carbon (88 Pieces)
Price on request
Seller
UK Time Legend
 
UK
Rolex Datejust
Rolex Datejust
£4,435
Seller
chrono v8 ltd
 
UK
Omega Speedmaster Reduced
Omega Speedmaster Reduced
£2,250
Seller
A. W. Porter & Son Ltd
 
UK
Porsche Design P6511
Porsche Design P6511
£1,450
Seller
Prestons
 
UK
Linde Werdelin 3 Timer Black Dial (3TM.2.6)
Straight from the manufacturer
Linde Werdelin 3 Timer Black Dial (3TM.2.6)
£4,304
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Rolex Ladies Oyster Perpetual Watch - Blue Vignette Diamond...
TOP
Rolex Ladies Oyster Perpetual Watch - Blue Vignette Diamond...
£1,452
Free shipping
Seller
LovinTyme
68
US
Stowa B-Uhr WW2 Luftwaffe Observers Watch Type A dial c.1940
Stowa B-Uhr WW2 Luftwaffe Observers Watch Type A dial c.1940
£5,950
Free shipping
Seller
Finest Hour Vintage Military Timepieces & Collectibles
 
UK
Rolex Submariner
Rolex Submariner
£5,350
Seller
Christopher Poel Watches and Jewellery
 
UK
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16
TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 16
£2,499
Seller
Vintagejeweller
 
UK
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date
£3,250
Seller
Avanti Fine Jewellery
 
UK
Rolex Explorer II 16570 chicchi di mais
Rolex Explorer II 16570 chicchi di mais
£5,321
Seller
chrono v8 ltd
 
UK
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean
£2,910
Seller
A. W. Porter & Son Ltd
 
UK
Omega Seamaster Professional
Omega Seamaster Professional
£2,250
Seller
Wrights The Jewellers
 
UK
Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Anthracite DLC
Straight from the manufacturer
Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Anthracite DLC
£10,655
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Rolex Ladies 18K Yellow Gold President- Pink Diamond Dial -...
TOP
Rolex Ladies 18K Yellow Gold President- Pink Diamond Dial -...
£4,364
Free shipping
Seller
LovinTyme
68
US
Eterna W.W.W.  British Army Wristwatch c.1945
Eterna W.W.W. British Army Wristwatch c.1945
£2,195
Free shipping
Seller
Finest Hour Vintage Military Timepieces & Collectibles
 
UK
Rolex Datejust Oyster Perpetual With Silver Diamond Dial
Rolex Datejust Oyster Perpetual With Silver Diamond Dial
£2,995
Seller
Emron Watches
 
UK
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M
TAG Heuer Aquaracer 300M
£1,550
Seller
Martin Wilkinson Ltd
 
UK
Zenith EL PRIMERO Port Royal
Zenith EL PRIMERO Port Royal
£1,850
Seller
Avanti Fine Jewellery
 
UK
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Mechanical Watches: Technical Masterpieces

The mechanical watch is one of humanity's most important cultural innovations. For centuries, watches have been keeping track of time. Today, there is a myriad of environmentally-friendly mechanical watches running precisely without a battery.

Highlights

  • Watchmaking art - a fine piece of craftsmanship on your wrist
  • Incredible variety: a watch for every budget and taste
  • No batteries required: manual and automatic calibers
  • Famous diving watches such as the Rolex Submariner
  • Inexpensive automatic watch: Tissot PRS 516

Mechanical Watches: A Cultural Revival

Watch lovers and collectors have been enthusiastically celebrating mechanical watches for decades. Wristwatches from Rolex or Patek Philippe are considered some of the most coveted luxury watches there are, and for good reason. Both manufacturers produce mechanical timepieces that are valuable and maintain their worth. Some vintage models and limited editions even increase in value over the years.
However, there was a time when mechanical watches had a difficult time surviving. With the rise of inexpensive quartz watches in the 1970s, many watch manufacturers found themselves in extreme hardship. Some brands were forced to quit and have since disappeared; today, they are only known by watch experts. Before the quartz boom, mechanical wristwatches and pocket watches were everyday items. If you wanted to know the current time, you needed a watch, and at that time, most had a mechanical movement. However, since quartz watches were less expensive than their mechanical siblings in the mid-1970s, quartz timepieces almost completely wiped mechanical ones off the map.
Mechanical watches experienced a comeback in the beginning of the 1980s, however. Watch lovers and collectors rediscovered the charm of a ticking mechanical movement, and felt able to accept deviations of seconds or minutes. However, it was really about the technology and precision engineering inside the watch. Since most manufacturers switched to making quartz watches, fans of mechanical watches had to find these timepieces at flea markets, auctions, and in leftover stock. In those days, it was easy to get a good bargain. That changed a few years later when the demand for old mechanical watches exceeded the supply. Traditional watch manufacturers noticed this change and began to offer mechanical watches in their collections once again. New brands and manufacturers also began to spring up in abundance, such as the German brand Nomos. Roland Schwertner founded this business in 1990, shortly after the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Classic watchmaking has been experiencing a renaissance and a completely unexpected boom in sales. Wristwatches have transformed from a basic commodity to a status symbol for both men and women.

Buying Advice

Introductory Mechanical Watches

There is an abundance of mechanical watches, from inexpensive pre-owned or new models to mid-priced new watches to exclusive pieces which can cost upwards of a million euros. You can find pre-owned vintage watches from brands such as Seiko for less than 100 euros . These watches are often in good condition and are an inexpensive introduction to the world of mechanical watches. You can also find new watches from Japanese manufacturers such as Citizen, Orient, and Seiko in the 100 - 200 euros price range. There are many manufacturers, such as Junkers or Zeppelin, that use Japanese movements from Miyota in their introductory models. Miyota is Citizen's caliber department.
Swiss mechanical watches are also available at inexpensive prices. A used, vintage Tissot watch costs between 100 and 400 euros. A new Tissot PRS 516 , one of their most famous and popular models, costs around 500 euros. A highlight in this collection is the Powermatic 80 variant, with an impressive 80-hour power reserve. It's available for around 700 euros; usually, watches with long power reserves cost a few thousand euros. With an added stopwatch function, a used PRS-516 costs around 1,000 euros. New watches from this series cost around 1,600 euros. Mechanical watches from Certina, Hamilton, or Longines are in a similar price range to Tissot's.

Luxury Mechanical Watches from Omega and Rolex

The Swiss watch manufacturer Omega has an excellent reputation in the watch industry. Their timepieces are defined by their innovative technology, appealing designs, and an excellent price-performance ratio. One of Omega's most popular models is the Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch. This chronograph was the first to reach the Moon. Pre-owned models in very good condition are available for around 2,500 euros. New, the Speedmaster Professional costs at least 3,000 euros. Special editions like the Silver Snoopy Award Limited Edition have doubled in value: originally, the watch cost 5,900 euros, while it now costs 12,000 euros new.
Rolex is probably the most famous watch brand worldwide. There's no other brand that stands for luxury and prestige like Rolex does. The Submariner and the Daytona are two of the most sought-after Rolex models. The bicolor Daytona is available pre-owned starting for around 8,500 euros. Pre-owned Daytonas made of stainless steel, however, cost at least 10,000 euros. New, the bicolor model costs 10,000 euros; a new stainless steel model costs around 14,000 euros. Stainless steel Rolex watches are especially in demand and thus maintain a more stable value. The Paul Newman Daytona is also quite popular. This model can be identified by its contrasting dial edges and subdials. The numbers on the dial are in an Art Deco style. Models with reference number 6239 are particularly rare. If they feature a Paul Newman design, these watches can easily cost over 100,000 euros.
The Rolex Submariner, one of the first diving watches ever produced, is available pre-owned for around 4,500 euros. New models without a date display and the distinctive date magnifier cost about 6,000 euros. With a date display, the Submariner costs around 7,000 euros. A vintage Submariner with reference number 1680 and red writing on the dial costs between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. It earned its nickname "Red Sub" thanks to its characteristic red text.

Manual Winding Mechanical Watches

Every mechanical movement has multiple gears. In each movement, the energy for the movement of the wheels comes from a specific storage. In large grandfather clocks, these are weights attached to chains, and the chains must be pulled in order to wind the movement. Pocket watches and wristwatches, on the other hand, have mainsprings which can be wound via a key or a crown. The potential energy stored in the wound mainspring is released to the train in a controlled fashion. Mainsprings were also what made it possible to downsize movements. Another pioneering invention was the concept of crown winding, which made easy-to-lose keys obsolete. One of the first pocket watches with crown winding came from Louis Audemars. The business introduced this watch feature in 1838. You can also set the hands using the crown.
A mechanical movement functions very simply in theory. The mainspring receives its energy via the crown, winding stem, and wheels of the winding system. In order to prevent the mainspring from suddenly unrolling, there's a small stopwork. The train reduces the high force of the mainspring. The train's transmission is calculated so precisely that the seconds wheel makes a full rotation every minute. The escapement is located at the end. It's comprised of a pallet and an escape wheel. The escapement prevents the train from going out of control, and it ensures the watch keeps running by forwarding tiny force pulses to the balance wheel. The balance wheel keeps the pace of the movement, oscillating back and forth. It's comprised of the balance rim and balance spring, which is the beating heart of every mechanical caliber. Without the balance spring, the balance wheel along with the entire movement would stop moving after a short time. Thus, the escapement and oscillation systems form the base of every mechanical watch.
The motion train is located under the dial. Generally, this reduces the center wheel's number of revolutions by one-twelfth. The center wheel makes one rotation on its own axis every 60 minutes. Thus, the hour hand makes one full rotation every 12 hours.
Several different manufacturers are still producing manual winding mechanical calibers, such as Junghans, Nomos, Patek Philippe, and Jaeger-LeCoultre.

Technical Details of Manual Winding Watches

  • Movement design allows for flat cases
  • Manual winding
  • Runs without a battery for up to 8 days

Automatic Mechanical Watches

The invention of automatic winding revolutionized the mechanical watch, as automatic watches wind themselves just by being worn. The regular morning ritual of winding your wristwatch ceased to exist. In order for the watch to automatically wind, a rotor is used. Thanks to the constant force of gravity, it's always being pulled towards the center of the Earth. When you move your arm up and down, the rotor rotates around in the case and winds the mainspring.
Winding occurs uni- or bidirectionally, depending on the movement. A bidirectional winding system has the advantage that the movement's winding rotor is wound to the right and to the left. A unidirectional winding system powers the movement by winding it in one direction. Therefore, it takes longer to fully wind the watch. The Pellaton winding system is an especially efficient winding system. It winds the movement bidirectionally, using small movements of the oscillating mass. The inventor of the Pellaton winding system was Albert Pellaton, the technical director at the International Watch Company from 1944 to 1966.
Both winding systems have a so-called reduction gear. This converts the fast movements of the rotor into slower ones with a higher torque. The end of the mainspring is not directly connected to the barrel. Rather, the end is connected to the so-called slipping spring so that the mainspring doesn't break off. When the movement is fully wound, the slipping spring slides along the inner wall of the barrel.
Mechanical watches with an automatic caliber have many advantages to offer. For one, they're convenient, as they don't need to be wound by hand. They also don't require batteries to run, making them generally more environmentally friendly than quartz watches. Generally, automatic movements are also more precise than manual movements, as the oscillating mass provides constant tension to the mainspring. That involves constant torque, which positively affects the amplitude. Amplitude is a term referring to the degree of rotation the balance wheel moves per oscillation.
Amongst watchmakers, the in-house, automatic Rolex calibers are considered some of the best, most robust, and most precise movements in existence.

Technical Details of Automatic Watches

  • Wind automatically while being worn
  • Often more precise than manual winding watches
  • Environmentally friendly: no battery

Mechanical Watches with Special Complications

Most mechanical watches limit themselves to displaying the time and the date. Automatic winding is one of the most common complications utilized in watches. A complication is a function of a mechanical movement that goes beyond displaying the hours, minutes, and seconds. Watchmakers also differentiate between small and large complications. Small complications are, for example, date or day of the week displays or power reserve indicators. A diving watch's rotatable bezel, moon phase display, or a GMT watch's second time zone are also small complications. Complications like minute repetition, perpetual calendars, and large and small striking works are considered large complications . A stopwatch function is also a large complication. In comparison to a perpetual calendar, a stopwatch function is similarly intricate, but more common and much less expensive.
The Swiss manufacturer Patek Philippe is known for their especially complicated watches. Their 1932 Graves Supercomplication pocket watch, as well as the Calibre 89 from 1989, are considered some of their most intricate pieces. The Graves Supercomplication, a special project for the New York banker Henry Graves, Jr., has an impressive 24 complications. Among these complications are a perpetual calendar, double chronograph to time intervening periods, and different astronomical displays. In 1989, the Calibre 89 replaced the Graves Supercomplication as the most complicated pocket watch in the world. The Calibre 89 has 33 different functions and remains one of the most complicated pocket watches in the world to date. It has a full perpetual calendar, a split-seconds chronograph, an indicator for the moon's age and phases, astronomical functions, a minute repeater, an alarm, and both a grande and petite sonnerie.
One of the most complicated wristwatches in the world is the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime with 20 complications. The timepiece has multiple acoustic complications, such as a minute repeater, petite sonnerie, grand sonnerie , an alarm with time strike, and a perpetual date repeater. The watch can also function as an alarm. It can even chime the time. Furthermore, it displays a second time zone, a perpetual calendar, power reserve indicators for the going train and strikework, a day and night display, and a moon phase display. The caliber 300 GS AL 36-750 QIS FUS IRM, which powers the Grandmaster Chime, is comprised of 1,366 pieces. The watch's red gold case is very finely chiseled, and in order to display all of the complications, the watch has a dial on the front and back side. Patek Philippe calls this "double face." There are only seven Grandmaster Chime watches in the world, one of which is located in the Patek Philippe Museum. This extravagant watch costs around 6.4 million euros.

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