Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection is equal parts modern, sporty, and elegant. Its design is largely based on the legendary Polaris Memovox, which the Swiss manufacturer presented in 1968. However, the modern collection isn't a true remake but rather a contemporary reimagining of the original. These watches bridge the gap between the classic timepieces of the Master Control collection and the sporty diving watches of the Master Compressor Diving series.

The Polaris collection contains a wide range of timepieces, from simple three-hand watches to top models like the rose gold Polaris Chronograph and the Polaris Mariner Memovox with an alarm function. In addition to rose gold, Jaeger-LeCoultre offers the Polaris in stainless steel and titanium, though the latter only appears on the Chronograph Worldtime. Finally, the collection is broken down into four sub-collections: Automatic, Date, Chronograph, and Mariner.

Current Polaris models feature narrow bezels that add to their sporty, elegant look. The dials are especially refined and have a sunburst pattern in the middle. What's more, the chronographs boast a granular texture around the hour markers.

Jaeger-LeCoultre outfits each Polaris watch with an in-house caliber. The Polaris Mariner Memovox has perhaps the most interesting movement, the caliber 956. This movement is the culmination of the manufacturer's long history with alarm functions. However, the collection's other movements are also thoroughly impressive.

While most Polaris watches are water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft), those of the Mariner series are resistant to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft).

You can purchase an entry-level Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Automatic in stainless steel for as little as 6,600 USD. Fans of date displays should take a closer look at the Polaris Date, which demands roughly 8,100 USD. The Polaris Chronograph is slightly more expensive at around 9,300 USD. If you would appreciate the functionality of a watch with an alarm function, the Polaris Mariner Memovox is the way to go – just be sure to have about 18,000 USD on hand.

The Polaris Automatic is the perfect entry-level model. It is 41 mm in diameter and available with a black or blue dial. Three-hand editions feature dials with long, luminous indices broken up by Arabic numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock.

The ref. 9008180 comes in stainless steel and pairs a blue dial with a stainless steel bracelet. Its power comes from the in-house caliber 898/1, which you can view through the sapphire case back. This movement comes with a rotating diving scale around the dial's edge operated by the additional crown at 2 o'clock. The Polaris Automatic lacks a date display and has a power reserve of 40 hours. A sapphire case back provides a view of the movement at work. Finally, this model is water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft).

Prices for a mint-condition timepiece sit around 7,600 USD. If you can do without a steel bracelet and would prefer a black dial, the ref. 9008470 is the right watch for you. This version comes on a black leather strap and sells for roughly 6,000 USD.

The Polaris Date ref. 9068670 is an impressive take on the original from 1968. Its stainless steel case is 42 mm in diameter and comes on a sports black rubber strap. Jaeger-LeCoultre outfits this model with the caliber 899A/1. With a 40-hour power reserve, this movement is identical to the 898/1 except for its date display at 3 o'clock. Retro beige luminous material fills the hands and indices, contrasting nicely with the black dial. Like the original, the Polaris Date has a stainless steel screw-down case back with a stylized engraving of a diver. Water resistance to 200 m (20 bar, 656 ft) rounds out this watch's functionality.

Prices for a never-worn Polaris Date sit around 8,100 USD on Chrono24.

With water resistance to 300 m (30 bar, 984 ft), the Polaris Mariner Date ref. 9068180 and Mariner Memovox ref. 9038180 are true diving watches. Both have 42-mm stainless steel cases and the same technology and design as the three-hand Polaris models. However, they are only available with a blue dial and come standard with a stainless steel bracelet. A few minor details help set these watches apart, including the orange safety rings on their crowns that let the wearer know whether the crown is screwed down fully. This also keeps the wearer from accidentally lengthening their dive time. What's more, both references feature skeletonized hands, thus guaranteeing an unobstructed view of the central scale and alarm function.

The Mariner Date contains the automatic in-house caliber 899AB with a 70-hour power reserve. On the other hand, the Mariner Memovox uses the 956AA with a 45-hour power reserve.

You can call a new Polaris Mariner Date your own for about 10,500 USD. Due to its more sophisticated caliber, the Memovox edition will set you back around 18,000 USD.

If you're on the market for a sporty and functional timepiece with a stopwatch, the Polaris Chronograph may be just what you're looking for. Jaeger-LeCoultre produces various chronographs with your choice of a tachymeter scale or world time function. Regardless of which model you choose, it will be water-resistant to 100 m (10 bar, 328 ft).

The watches of the Polaris Chronograph series are 42 mm in diameter and feature a tachymeter scale. While the stainless steel editions are available with a black or blue dial, the rose gold version comes exclusively with an anthracite dial. The subdials sit at 3 and 9 o'clock. These chronographs do without a date display; however, the result is a wonderfully symmetrical dial.

Arabic numerals mark the hours at 6 and 12, with elongated indices representing the other hours. White SuperLuminova coats the hands and indices, guaranteeing optimal readability under all lighting conditions. If you flip the watch over, you'll see the in-house caliber 751H through the sapphire crystal case back. This movement has a 65-hour power reserve.

The ref. 9028180 combines a stainless steel case with a matching metal bracelet. This model has a blue dial and costs roughly 9,800 USD. The same watch with a black dial (ref. 9028170) demands about 1,200 USD more. Both timepieces are available on leather straps for similar prices. The elegant rose gold edition uses the same technology but comes mounted on a brown leather strap. Thanks to its precious material, this model changes hands for around 25,500 USD on Chrono24.

Polaris Chronograph Worldtime: The Titanium Polaris

Titanium, a lighter alternative to stainless steel, is only used for one model in this collection: the Polaris Chronograph Worldtime. At 44 mm in diameter, this watch is also the collection's largest. You can choose between variants with a blue (ref. 905T480) or black (ref. 905T471) dial. Jaeger-LeCoultre offers the black edition on a light brown leather strap, while the blue version comes on a dark leather strap.

From a design perspective, the main difference between the Polaris Chronograph Worldtime and models with a tachymeter is the former's city ring with the names of 24 cities. An additional hour track between the city disc and main time display makes it easier to tell the time in the other time zones. You can adjust the city ring using the additional crown at 10 o'clock. All of this is possible thanks to the in-house caliber 752A with a 65-hour power reserve.

Both versions require an investment of approximately 14,500 USD in mint condition.