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Breguet Classique La Musical 7800BB/11/9YV
TOP
Breguet Classique La Musical 7800BB/11/9YV
£46,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
235
UK
Cartier Tank Américaine WB7079M5
TOP
Cartier Tank Américaine WB7079M5
£12,950
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
235
UK
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar
TOP
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar
£15,047
Seller
Heritage Jewelry and Loan
8
US
Chopard Retailed By Tiffany & Co. Vintage Diamond 1.32ct 18K Gold
TOP
Chopard Retailed By Tiffany & Co. Vintage Diamond 1.32ct 18K Gold
£3,087
Seller
May Street Services LLC
84
US
Rolex Men's Oyster Perpetual 1003 Automatic 14K gold c.1966...
TOP
Rolex Men's Oyster Perpetual 1003 Automatic 14K gold c.1966...
£6,806
Free shipping
Seller
GMTSKY
386
US
Patek Philippe Nautilus Fully Loaded Rose Gold 5719/10R-010
Patek Philippe Nautilus Fully Loaded Rose Gold 5719/10R-010
£450,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
235
UK
Rolex Lady-Datejust Diamond Dial Fluted Bezel 26mm w/ Box &...
TOP
Rolex Lady-Datejust Diamond Dial Fluted Bezel 26mm w/ Box &...
£8,425
Free shipping
Seller
LSM Watch
8
US
Rolex Submariner Date
TOP
Rolex Submariner Date
£17,850
Seller
Jopsons Jewellers
40
UK
Rolex Day-Date
Rolex Day-Date
£9,353
Free shipping
Seller
M J GILLAN LTD
10
UK
Bremont Watch Kingsman BKM-RG
Bremont Watch Kingsman BKM-RG
£13,750
Seller
Watchfinder.co.uk Ltd
UK
Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion - 18K Rose Gold - Box & Papers
Hublot Classic Fusion Aerofusion - 18K Rose Gold - Box & Papers
£17,500
Seller
Bloombar Watches
58
UK
Rolex Day-Date Yellow Gold Blue Baton - Serviced by Rolex
TOP
Rolex Day-Date Yellow Gold Blue Baton - Serviced by Rolex
£12,495
Seller
Mark Worthington Jewellers
121
UK
Rolex vintage 18k pink/rose 6511 day date black Stella dial
TOP
Rolex vintage 18k pink/rose 6511 day date black Stella dial
£6,752
Seller
Providence Trading Co.
 
US
Omega Men's Solid 14K Rose Gold cal.30T25C Manual Hand-Wind,...
TOP
Omega Men's Solid 14K Rose Gold cal.30T25C Manual Hand-Wind,...
£2,917
Free shipping
Seller
GMTSKY
386
US
Rolex Unworn Daytona 116509
Rolex Unworn Daytona 116509
£24,750
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
235
UK
Rolex Yacht-Master Rosegold  Diamond Dial Rainbow Bezel 40mm
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master Rosegold Diamond Dial Rainbow Bezel 40mm
Price on request
Free shipping
Seller
LSM Watch
8
US
Rolex Datejust
TOP
Rolex Datejust
£8,295
Seller
Jopsons Jewellers
40
UK
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar
£43,500
Free shipping
Seller
M J GILLAN LTD
10
UK
Audemars Piguet 18ct Rose Gold Royal Oak Offshore (AP Serviced...
TOP
Audemars Piguet 18ct Rose Gold Royal Oak Offshore (AP Serviced...
£30,995
Free shipping
Seller
ChronoEdge
162
UK
Breguet Classique Complications Tourbillon - 1801BR/12/2W6
Breguet Classique Complications Tourbillon - 1801BR/12/2W6
£89,950
Seller
Bloombar Watches
58
UK
Omega Gold 80 microns Men's vintage 1958 watch cal 420 + Box
TOP
Omega Gold 80 microns Men's vintage 1958 watch cal 420 + Box
£799
Seller
Fine Auction Club
213
UK
Omega Seamaster 300M 2636.50.91 - Serviced By Omega
TOP
Omega Seamaster 300M 2636.50.91 - Serviced By Omega
£11,400
Seller
Mark Worthington Jewellers
121
UK
Cartier Tank Americaine W26055L1 Large size 18ct White Gold...
TOP
Cartier Tank Americaine W26055L1 Large size 18ct White Gold...
£8,950
Seller
Regal Time Ltd
25
UK
Patek Philippe Skeleton 3878J
Patek Philippe Skeleton 3878J
£55,000
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
235
UK
A. Lange & Söhne Watch Datograph 410.038FE
A. Lange & Söhne Watch Datograph 410.038FE
£87,500
Seller
Watchfinder.co.uk Ltd
UK
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 18k White Gold Meteorite Dial
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 18k White Gold Meteorite Dial
£17,000
Seller
Chronos Aeon Ltd
 
UK
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ultra thin
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ultra thin
£35,000
Free shipping
Seller
M J GILLAN LTD
10
UK
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 18ct White Gold(Patek Philippe...
TOP
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 18ct White Gold(Patek Philippe...
£10,995
Free shipping
Seller
ChronoEdge
162
UK
Rolex Day-Date - 118239 - 18K White Gold - Full Set - 12-Month...
Rolex Day-Date - 118239 - 18K White Gold - Full Set - 12-Month...
£12,995
Seller
Bloombar Watches
58
UK
Omega Seamaster Cosmic 1967 Mens vintge watch Automatic Box gents
TOP
Omega Seamaster Cosmic 1967 Mens vintge watch Automatic Box gents
£999
Seller
Fine Auction Club
213
UK
Rolex DayDate (ref 1803).  Grey dial. President.Yellow Gold....
TOP
Rolex DayDate (ref 1803). Grey dial. President.Yellow Gold....
£7,495
Seller
Prestige Watches
 
UK
Rolex Rainbow Diamonds Aftermarket Diamonds 116505
Rolex Rainbow Diamonds Aftermarket Diamonds 116505
£43,829
Seller
H&Y Jewellery
34
UK
Rolex Daytona 116519
Rolex Daytona 116519
£13,500
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
235
UK
Patek Philippe Watch Grand Complications 5270G-001
Patek Philippe Watch Grand Complications 5270G-001
£89,950
Seller
Watchfinder.co.uk Ltd
UK
Rolex 2002 18ct Yellow Gold Daytona, 116518, MINT, New Strap
Rolex 2002 18ct Yellow Gold Daytona, 116518, MINT, New Strap
£12,995
Seller
Pomerance Boutique
73
UK
Patek Philippe 5200G 8 day white gold
Patek Philippe 5200G 8 day white gold
£26,000
Free shipping
Seller
M J GILLAN LTD
10
UK
IWC Pilots 18ct Rose Gold Automatic Chronograph IW371713
TOP
IWC Pilots 18ct Rose Gold Automatic Chronograph IW371713
£8,995
Free shipping
Seller
ChronoEdge
162
UK
Rolex Cellini Time 50505 - 18K Rose Gold - Box & Papers
Rolex Cellini Time 50505 - 18K Rose Gold - Box & Papers
£8,695
Seller
Bloombar Watches
58
UK
Omega Crosshair Classic Rose Pink Gold vintage mens watch + Box
TOP
Omega Crosshair Classic Rose Pink Gold vintage mens watch + Box
£899
Seller
Fine Auction Club
213
UK
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date - Original Champagne Dial (1965)
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Date - Original Champagne Dial (1965)
£4,295
Seller
Sanderson & Son Fine Watches Ltd
6
UK
Patek Philippe Nautilus Aftermarket full set diamonds
Patek Philippe Nautilus Aftermarket full set diamonds
£78,331
Seller
H&Y Jewellery
34
UK
Waltham 9k Y/G White Arabic Dial Half Hunter Vintage Pocket Watch
Waltham 9k Y/G White Arabic Dial Half Hunter Vintage Pocket Watch
£950
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
235
UK
Rolex Watch Day-Date 1803
Rolex Watch Day-Date 1803
£7,650
Seller
Watchfinder.co.uk Ltd
UK
Rolex 18ct Yellow Gold 36mm Datejust, 1601, Boxed
Rolex 18ct Yellow Gold 36mm Datejust, 1601, Boxed
£6,995
Seller
Pomerance Boutique
73
UK
Patek Philippe Automatic back winder Calatrava 1981
Patek Philippe Automatic back winder Calatrava 1981
£7,250
Free shipping
Seller
M J GILLAN LTD
10
UK
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Ref 31160 - Fully Serviced
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Ref 31160 - Fully Serviced
£3,595
Seller
Time Rediscovered Ltd
17
UK
Rolex Daytona 116518 - 18K Yellow Gold - With Box - 12-Month Wty
Rolex Daytona 116518 - 18K Yellow Gold - With Box - 12-Month Wty
£15,950
Seller
Bloombar Watches
58
UK
Omega Seamaster Men's Automatic Rose Pink Gold Watch + Box
TOP
Omega Seamaster Men's Automatic Rose Pink Gold Watch + Box
£1,200
Seller
Fine Auction Club
213
UK
Rolex Oyster Perpetual non-date With Original White Roman Dial
Rolex Oyster Perpetual non-date With Original White Roman Dial
£3,995
Seller
Sanderson & Son Fine Watches Ltd
6
UK
Rolex Day-Date II President II  41 White Gold aftermarket...
Rolex Day-Date II President II 41 White Gold aftermarket...
£38,151
Seller
H&Y Jewellery
34
UK
Rolex Daytona 116589
Rolex Daytona 116589
£29,950
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
235
UK
Hublot Watch King Power 709.OM.1780.RX
Hublot Watch King Power 709.OM.1780.RX
£19,250
Seller
Watchfinder.co.uk Ltd
UK
Audemars Piguet QUANTIEME PERPETUAL
TOP
Audemars Piguet QUANTIEME PERPETUAL
£11,510
Seller
ANNIBALI&CO
100
IT
Patek Philippe White Gold Chrongraph appears unworn full set 2015
Patek Philippe White Gold Chrongraph appears unworn full set 2015
£42,950
Free shipping
Seller
M J GILLAN LTD
10
UK
Omega De Ville Automatic Vintage 116.50.20
Omega De Ville Automatic Vintage 116.50.20
£895
Seller
Louis Meyer Watches Ltd
5
UK
Patek Philippe World Time - 5130G-001 - Box & Papers
Patek Philippe World Time - 5130G-001 - Box & Papers
£22,995
Seller
Bloombar Watches
58
UK
IWC Schaffhausen Yacht Club 18K / 750  Gold mens watch + Box
TOP
IWC Schaffhausen Yacht Club 18K / 750 Gold mens watch + Box
£3,999
Seller
Fine Auction Club
213
UK
Omega 14K Yellow Gold Seamaster Calendar
Omega 14K Yellow Gold Seamaster Calendar
£2,195
Seller
Sanderson & Son Fine Watches Ltd
6
UK
Patek Philippe Complications Annual Calendar Rose Gold...
Patek Philippe Complications Annual Calendar Rose Gold...
£37,236
Seller
H&Y Jewellery
34
UK
Rolex Date 15238
Rolex Date 15238
£6,950
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
235
UK
Omega Watch Speedmaster Moonwatch 3695.50.31
Omega Watch Speedmaster Moonwatch 3695.50.31
£8,750
Seller
Watchfinder.co.uk Ltd
UK
Patek Philippe Aquanaut
Patek Philippe Aquanaut
£40,600
Seller
Twenty4time
 
UK
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Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.

Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.

Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.

Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.

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