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Bulgari Bulgari a5011 Very good Yellow gold 26mm Quartz
TOP
Bulgari vintage a5011 (original buckle 18kt) pre BB 26 GL
£1,642
Professional dealer
67
IT
Patek Philippe Gondolo 5109R-001 Very good Rose gold 30mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London
TOP
Patek Philippe Gondolo Rose Gold 5109R-001
£10,950
Free shipping
Professional dealer
714
UK
Rolex Daytona 116508 New Yellow gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Daytona - 116508 - Racing Dial - NOS MINT Stickers FULL...
£37,401
Professional dealer
595
IT
Cartier Baignoire Very good Yellow gold 23mm Manual winding
TOP
Cartier Baignoire Gaudron comme neuve
£4,561
Professional dealer
50
FR
Omega 522.53.39.50.04.001 Very good Rose gold 39mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London, Paris or Brussels delivery face to face only - Other countries shipping with Brinks and DHL Express
TOP
Omega Olympic official timekeeper pink gold full set
£8,119
Professional dealer
69
UK
Cartier Rotonde de Cartier W1552851 White gold 35mm Manual winding United Kingdom, Oxford
TOP
Cartier Rotonde De Cartier 18k White Gold - Box & Papers 2016
£6,950
Free shipping
Professional dealer
294
UK
Rolex Lady-Datejust 69178 Very good Yellow gold 26mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
TOP
Rolex Datejust Diamond Set Yellow Gold 69178
£6,500
Free shipping
Professional dealer
714
UK
Roger Dubuis Hommage H34 Very good Rose gold 34mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London
Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph
£26,500
Free shipping
Professional dealer
27
UK
Richard Mille RM 011 RM 011 Red gold 42mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Richard Mille RM 011 'Le Mans Classic'
£160,000
Professional dealer
5
UK
Rolex Daytona 116518LN Unworn Yellow gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
TOP
Rolex Daytona Gold Oysterflex 2020 ref 116518LN
£27,600
Professional dealer
400
UK
Cartier Panthère 1280 Very good Yellow gold 22mm Quartz United Kingdom, London
TOP
Cartier Panthere 1280 Yellow Gold Factory Set Diamond Bezel...
£6,850
Free shipping
Professional dealer
148
UK
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5119J-001 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5119J-001 - 18K Yellow Gold - Box &...
£13,995
Professional dealer
290
UK
Baume & Mercier William Baume MOA08841 Unworn Rose gold 43mm Manual winding
TOP
Baume & Mercier William Baume Flying Tourbillon Limited...
£36,058
Professional dealer
190
DE
IWC Very good Yellow gold 35.5mm Manual winding United Kingdom, Tunbridge Wells
TOP
IWC Calibre 89, 18k Gold - Fully Serviced
£1,995
Professional dealer
63
UK
Rolex Daytona 116505 New Rose gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona - Bright rainbow - Limited edition /5...
£41,342
Professional dealer
80
IT
Cartier Tank Française W50001R2 Very good Yellow gold 28mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
TOP
Cartier Tank Francaise Yellow Gold W50001R2
£9,500
Free shipping
Professional dealer
714
UK
Vacheron Constantin 6194 Good Yellow gold 31mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London
Vacheron Constantin 6194 - Signed by Cartier
£9,750
Free shipping
Professional dealer
27
UK
Cartier Panthère Yellow gold 22mm United Kingdom, London
Cartier Panthère 'Diamond Case'
£10,500
Professional dealer
5
UK
Cartier Ballon Bleu 42mm W6900651 Very good Rose gold 42mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
TOP
Cartier Ballon Bleu 42mm Gold W6900651 mint with box & papers,...
£9,950
Professional dealer
400
UK
Franck Muller Cintrée Curvex 7502 QZ Very good White gold 29mm Quartz United Kingdom, London
TOP
Franck Muller 7502 QZ Cintree Curvex Ladies Watch with Papers...
£3,250
Free shipping
Professional dealer
148
UK
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1R-001 New Rose gold 40.5mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5980/1R-001 Rose Gold - Box & Papers -...
£139,000
Professional dealer
290
UK
Piaget Piaget automatic Fair White gold 34mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
TOP
Piaget 18k White Gold 34mm Vintage Automatic
£4,250
Professional dealer
273
UK
Rolex GMT-Master II 116718LN Very good Yellow gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Rolex GMT-Master II Anniversary Green Dial
£30,000
Professional dealer
60
UK
Omega Fair Yellow gold 34mm Manual winding United Kingdom, Tunbridge Wells
TOP
Omega 9k Gold - Fully Serviced
£895
Professional dealer
63
UK
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196R-001 Unworn Rose gold 37mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava Tiffany & Co. Rose Gold 5196R-001
£28,950
Free shipping
Professional dealer
714
UK
Urban Jürgensen Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection - Ref. 2340 WG New White gold 40mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London
Urban Jürgensen Jules Collection - Ref. 2340 WG
Price on request
Free shipping
Professional dealer
27
UK
Rolex Daytona Automatic United Kingdom, London
Rolex Daytona Everose Gold
£33,500
Professional dealer
5
UK
Rolex Day-Date 1803 Big Logo Clasp Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Day Date President Automatic 18K Gold Herrenuhr Big Logo
£11,394
Professional dealer
631
DE
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196G-001 Good White gold 37mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London, Paris & Brussels face to face delivery only - Other destination shipping with Brinks & DHL Express
Patek Philippe Calatrava white gold hallmark of Geneva full set
£15,417
Professional dealer
69
UK
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia 424.038F Unworn White gold 43mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Triple Split 424.038F - 18K White...
£160,000
Professional dealer
290
UK
Rolex Datejust 16238 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic United Kingdom, Essex
Rolex Datejust 36 16238 with Box and Papers
£11,995
Free shipping
Professional dealer
425
UK
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5740/1G-001 Very good White gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Patek Philippe Nautilus Perpetual Calendar White Gold
£149,900
Professional dealer
60
UK
Zenith Very good Yellow gold 35mm Manual winding United Kingdom, Tunbridge Wells
TOP
Zenith 18k Gold - Fully Serviced
£1,195
Professional dealer
63
UK
Cartier Tank Française WE1002S3 Very good White gold 20mm Quartz United Kingdom, London
TOP
Cartier Tank Francaise Diamond Set White Gold WE1002S3
£7,750
Free shipping
Professional dealer
714
UK
Vacheron Constantin 4072 Good Yellow gold 35mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London
Vacheron Constantin Chronograph Ref. 4072 | yellow gold
£29,000
Free shipping
Professional dealer
27
UK
Richard Mille RM 07 RM 07-01 Rose gold United Kingdom, London
Richard Mille RM 07-01 Rose Gold Medium Set
Price on request
Professional dealer
5
UK
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196 Very good Yellow gold 37mm Manual winding
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava ref 5196 18K Gold Gelbgold Handaufzug...
£14,587
Professional dealer
631
DE
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 26192OR.OO.D081CR.01 Very good Rose gold 42mm Automatic United Kingdom, Essex
TOP
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore 42mm "Don Ramon" Rose Gold
£28,995
Professional dealer
29
UK
Rolex Daytona 116508 Unworn Yellow gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Rolex Daytona 116508 - Rare Panda Dial - Box & Papers - 2020...
£34,895
Professional dealer
290
UK
Rolex Daytona 16518 Very good Yellow gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Rolex Daytona
£19,066
Professional dealer
10
UK
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 116655 Unworn Rose gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Rolex Yacht-Master 40 Oysterflex Unworn with factory stickers
£22,000
Professional dealer
60
UK
Omega 166.5161 Very good Yellow gold Automatic United Kingdom, Tunbridge Wells
TOP
Omega Automatic 9k Gold 166.5161
£1,995
Professional dealer
63
UK
Bulgari Bulgari BB191T Very good Yellow gold 19mm Quartz United Kingdom, London
TOP
Bulgari Tubogas Yellow Gold BB191T
£9,250
Free shipping
Professional dealer
714
UK
Cartier Tonneau Tonneau Very good Rose gold 46.1mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London
Cartier Tonneau
£16,000
Free shipping
Professional dealer
27
UK
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Rose gold Automatic United Kingdom, London
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia 'Outsize Date'
£19,500
Professional dealer
5
UK
Rolex Datejust 68278 MINT Very good Yellow gold 31mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Datejust 18K Gold Gelbgold Papiere Automatic Medium Mid...
£13,674
Professional dealer
631
DE
Omega Constellation 886 Good Yellow gold 34mm Automatic United Kingdom, Leicester
Omega Constellation Chronometer 18ct Gold Circa 1960
£2,450
Free shipping
Professional dealer
165
UK
Rolex Daytona 116519 Very good White gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Rolex Daytona 116519 White Gold - Watch Only - 12-Month Warranty
£17,500
Professional dealer
290
UK
Frederique Constant Manufacture Slimline Moonphase FC-705X4S9 Very good Rose gold 42mm Automatic United Kingdom, Bishop's Stortford
TOP
Frederique Constant Moonphase Ultra Thin Rose Gold FC-705X4S9...
£7,229
Free shipping
Professional dealer
383
UK
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167R-001 Very good Rose gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167 Rose Gold Complete Set
£42,500
Professional dealer
60
UK
Baume & Mercier Classima 15606 Very good Yellow gold 32mm Quartz United Kingdom, Tunbridge Wells
TOP
Baume & Mercier Classima Ultra Thin Yellow Gold 15606
£1,795
Professional dealer
63
UK
Rolex Daytona 116509 Very good White gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, Essex
Rolex Daytona 116509 with Box and Papers
£31,495
Free shipping
Professional dealer
425
UK
Rolex rolex 2251 Very good Yellow gold 20mmmm Manual winding United Kingdom, Kent
Rolex vintage Orchid 18k box and papers full set reference 2251
£3,495
Free shipping
Professional dealer
104
UK
Cartier Tank Américaine Yellow gold 22mm United Kingdom, London
Cartier Tank Américaine 'Yellow Gold'
£5,250
Professional dealer
5
UK
Rolex Daytona 116528 Good Yellow gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Rolex Daytona 18k yellow gold Panda dial B&P
£29,191
Professional dealer
10
UK
Bulgari Parentesi BJ 06 Very good Yellow gold 21.5mm Quartz United Kingdom, London
TOP
Bulgari Parentesi / Trika Yellow Gold, Diamond Dial & Bracelet...
£9,950
Free shipping
Professional dealer
223
UK
Patek Philippe Calatrava 4857G Very good White gold Manual winding United Kingdom, London
Patek Philippe Moon Phase Calatrava Moon Phase 4857G-001 White...
£11,995
Professional dealer
290
UK
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk 145.029 Unworn White gold 44.2mm Manual winding United Kingdom
A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Striking Time
£77,448
Free shipping
Professional dealer
1737
UK
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 3940 Good Rose gold 36mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 3940R
£45,000
Professional dealer
60
UK
Rolex Datejust 126334 New White gold 41mm Automatic United Kingdom, Milton Keynes
Rolex Datejust
£9,400
Professional dealer
26
UK
Patek Philippe Calatrava 3919 Very good Yellow gold 33mm Manual winding United Kingdom, Guildford,Surrey
Patek Philippe Calatrava
£11,800
Professional dealer
111
UK
Rolex Datejust 16018 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic United Kingdom, Brighton
Rolex Datejust
£11,500
Private Seller
 
UK
Richard Mille RM 007 White gold Automatic United Kingdom, London
Richard Mille RM 007 White Gold & Jasper
Price on request
Professional dealer
5
UK
Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 2580 Very good White gold 32mm Automatic United Kingdom, Leicester
Girard Perregaux Vintage 1945 18ct White Gold
£5,300
Free shipping
Professional dealer
165
UK

Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.


Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.


Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.


Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.


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