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Bulgari 18k White Gold Diamond Bezel B&P BBW42C5GDLDAUTO
Bulgari 18k White Gold Diamond Bezel B&P BBW42C5GDLDAUTO
£8,950
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
54
UK
IWC Portuguese Rattrapante 18k Rose Gold Ref. IW3712 (Box&...
IWC Portuguese Rattrapante 18k Rose Gold Ref. IW3712 (Box&...
£8,774
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Center London
291
UK
Chopard 18K Solid Gold W/ Factory Diamonds 10/7023/8-20
Chopard 18K Solid Gold W/ Factory Diamonds 10/7023/8-20
£7,098
Seller
Phigora
58
US
Bulgari Diagono Regatta Chrono 80% off
Bulgari Diagono Regatta Chrono 80% off
£3,431
Seller
Raffi Boyadjian Watches Inc.
6
US
Chronographe Suisse Cie Mens
Chronographe Suisse Cie Mens
£611
Seller
MKG
 
US
Vacheron Constantin 33051 "Les Essentielles" Collection
Vacheron Constantin 33051 "Les Essentielles" Collection
£2,850
Seller
Private seller
 
UK
Rolex Day-Date 18238,year of manufacture 22-07-1993
Rolex Day-Date 18238,year of manufacture 22-07-1993
£9,928
Estimated price
Seller
Catawiki BV
 
Rolex Daytona Full Set almost looks unworn
Rolex Daytona Full Set almost looks unworn
£19,250
Free shipping
Seller
M J GILLAN LTD
UK
Rolex Daytona 116515LN 18k Rose chocolate Box&card
Rolex Daytona 116515LN 18k Rose chocolate Box&card
£17,086
Seller
AMU LUXURY CORP
 
US
Patek Philippe World Time
Patek Philippe World Time
£77,450
Seller
A Collected Man
5
UK
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Rubens Barrichello II Limited...
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Rubens Barrichello II Limited...
£54,250
Seller
Private seller
 
UK
Rolex 18k Day-Date Champagne Dial Ref: 18238 (With Papers)
Rolex 18k Day-Date Champagne Dial Ref: 18238 (With Papers)
£9,500
Free shipping
Seller
Tempvs Ltd
41
UK
Breitling Chronomat Evolution Mens 44mm 18K Gold Watch
Breitling Chronomat Evolution Mens 44mm 18K Gold Watch
£9,995
Free shipping
Seller
WT Time Pieces
21
UK
IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Edition "74th Members Meeting at...
IWC Ingenieur Chronograph Edition "74th Members Meeting at...
£14,200
Seller
Private seller
 
UK
Cartier Tortue Chronograph Monopoussoir
Cartier Tortue Chronograph Monopoussoir
£10,000
Seller
Private seller
 
UK
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic 18k Rose Gold
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Geographic 18k Rose Gold
£9,236
Estimated price
Seller
Catawiki BV
 
Rolex GMT-Master II 2017
Rolex GMT-Master II 2017
£19,950
Seller
WatchTraderUK
 
UK
Rolex 116505A Rose Gold Diamond Baguettes Dial
Rolex 116505A Rose Gold Diamond Baguettes Dial
£24,937
Seller
AMU LUXURY CORP
 
US
Cartier Tank Americane
Cartier Tank Americane
£24,995
Seller
Private seller
 
UK
Audemars Piguet AP Royal Oak Offshore 42mm | 18ct Rose Pink...
Audemars Piguet AP Royal Oak Offshore 42mm | 18ct Rose Pink...
£39,500
Free shipping
Seller
Freddie Keeble Watches & Diamonds
UK
Breguet Marine Royale
Breguet Marine Royale
£20,112
Seller
Noblesse LP
 
UK
Rolex Lady-Datejust 26mm 18K Gold Diamond Dial & Bezel Watch
Rolex Lady-Datejust 26mm 18K Gold Diamond Dial & Bezel Watch
£8,500
Free shipping
Seller
WT Time Pieces
21
UK
Rolex Day-Date - Rose Gold - NEW STYLE
Rolex Day-Date - Rose Gold - NEW STYLE
£10,450
Seller
Tempo and Time Ltd
9
UK
Vacheron Constantin Vintage Gold Dress Watch Ref  2143
Vacheron Constantin Vintage Gold Dress Watch Ref 2143
£4,450
Seller
Time Rediscovered Ltd
5
UK
Garrard Gold Vintage dress watch
Garrard Gold Vintage dress watch
£550
Seller
Private seller
 
UK
Audemars Piguet - Jules Audemars Tourbillon (Men's) - 2017
Audemars Piguet - Jules Audemars Tourbillon (Men's) - 2017
£46,179
Estimated price
Seller
Catawiki BV
 
Rolex 116508 green
Rolex 116508 green
£20,882
Seller
AMU LUXURY CORP
 
US
Rolex Yacht-Master
Rolex Yacht-Master
£11,500
Seller
JFD, Vintage & Prestige Watches
6
UK
Rolex | GMT Master ii Yellow Gold Ceramic Bezel | 116718LN
Rolex | GMT Master ii Yellow Gold Ceramic Bezel | 116718LN
£19,400
Free shipping
Seller
Freddie Keeble Watches & Diamonds
UK
Ulysse Nardin Manufacture 43 Limited 888 266 67
Ulysse Nardin Manufacture 43 Limited 888 266 67
£8,676
Seller
Noblesse LP
 
UK
Patek Philippe 5035 Annual Calendar Mens 18K White Gold Watch
Patek Philippe 5035 Annual Calendar Mens 18K White Gold Watch
£16,500
Free shipping
Seller
WT Time Pieces
21
UK
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6000G-012 18k White Gold Gents 6000G-012
Patek Philippe Calatrava 6000G-012 18k White Gold Gents 6000G-012
£18,995
Free shipping
Seller
Xupes.com
44
UK
Rolex 18k Day-Date, Diamond/Sapphire String Dial Ref: 18238
Rolex 18k Day-Date, Diamond/Sapphire String Dial Ref: 18238
£12,450
Free shipping
Seller
Tempvs Ltd
41
UK
Bovet Fleurier Amadeo 7-Day Skeleton Tourbillon
Bovet Fleurier Amadeo 7-Day Skeleton Tourbillon
£125,000
Seller
Private seller
 
UK
Jaeger-LeCoultre – Men's wristwatch
Jaeger-LeCoultre – Men's wristwatch
£1,293
Estimated price
Seller
Catawiki BV
 
Rolex 116718LN
Rolex 116718LN
£19,977
Seller
AMU LUXURY CORP
 
US
Rolex Pearlmaster 18ct Gold Diamond (Rolex serviced 2017)
Rolex Pearlmaster 18ct Gold Diamond (Rolex serviced 2017)
£18,850
Free shipping
Seller
ChronoEdge
57
UK
Cartier Tank Française 18k Yellow Gold Automatic Ref. 1840
Cartier Tank Française 18k Yellow Gold Automatic Ref. 1840
£7,388
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Center London
291
UK
Breguet 18k Yellow Gold Silver Dial Jump Hour Classique 3620
Breguet 18k Yellow Gold Silver Dial Jump Hour Classique 3620
£9,500
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
54
UK
Vacheron Constantin Overseas 49140J 40mm Chronograph 18k...
Vacheron Constantin Overseas 49140J 40mm Chronograph 18k...
£16,500
Free shipping
Seller
WT Time Pieces
21
UK
Ulysse Nardin Freak 28'800 White Gold
Ulysse Nardin Freak 28'800 White Gold
£28,788
Seller
Noblesse LP
 
UK
Rolex Day-Date with Stunning Rare String Dial Ref: 18038
Rolex Day-Date with Stunning Rare String Dial Ref: 18038
£16,500
Free shipping
Seller
Tempvs Ltd
41
UK
Rolex Day-Date
Rolex Day-Date
£6,250
Seller
Private seller
 
UK
Rolex - triple signed Gents swiss wrist watch. {date made,...
Rolex - triple signed Gents swiss wrist watch. {date made,...
£3,694
Estimated price
Seller
Catawiki BV
 
Breitling Emergency Orbiter III K56321 - Serviced By Breitling
Breitling Emergency Orbiter III K56321 - Serviced By Breitling
£19,950
Free shipping
Seller
Mark Worthington Jewellers
7
UK
IWC Portuguese Chronograph 18k Rose Gold Gents IW390402
IWC Portuguese Chronograph 18k Rose Gold Gents IW390402
£14,595
Free shipping
Seller
Xupes.com
44
UK
Rolex 326138
Rolex 326138
£22,535
Seller
AMU LUXURY CORP
 
US
Audemars Piguet 18k R/G Edward Piguet Quantieme Perpetual...
Audemars Piguet 18k R/G Edward Piguet Quantieme Perpetual...
£12,500
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
54
UK
Vacheron Constantin 1912 Historiques 18K Rose Gold Watch
Vacheron Constantin 1912 Historiques 18K Rose Gold Watch
£4,999
Free shipping
Seller
WT Time Pieces
21
UK
Cartier Santos 100 XL 18k Rose Gold FULL DIAMONDS/ICED...
Cartier Santos 100 XL 18k Rose Gold FULL DIAMONDS/ICED...
£21,241
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Center London
291
UK
Ulysse Nardin 18k White Gold Ulysse Nardin Sonata Cathedral,...
Ulysse Nardin 18k White Gold Ulysse Nardin Sonata Cathedral,...
£17,500
Free shipping
Seller
Tempvs Ltd
41
UK
Sarpaneva Korona rose gold  42 mm
Sarpaneva Korona rose gold 42 mm
£13,500
Seller
A Collected Man
5
UK
Rolex - triple signed Gents swiss wrist watch. hallmarked...
Rolex - triple signed Gents swiss wrist watch. hallmarked...
£2,078
Estimated price
Seller
Catawiki BV
 
Vacheron Constantin Vintage 18k Fancy lugs
Vacheron Constantin Vintage 18k Fancy lugs
£3,150
Seller
Watches Of Westminster
21
UK
IWC Automatic 18k Gold Cal. 8541B
IWC Automatic 18k Gold Cal. 8541B
£2,449
Seller
Time Rediscovered Ltd
5
UK
Rolex Pearlmaster 80318
Rolex Pearlmaster 80318
£10,595
Free shipping
Seller
Charles Martin Watch Company Ltd
 
UK
Cartier 18k W/G Tank Americaine Chronoflex B&P W26033L1
Cartier 18k W/G Tank Americaine Chronoflex B&P W26033L1
£8,500
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
54
UK
IWC Portuguese F.A. JONES SKELETON 43MM Mens Limited Ed Watch
IWC Portuguese F.A. JONES SKELETON 43MM Mens Limited Ed Watch
£22,500
Free shipping
Seller
WT Time Pieces
21
UK
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso 18k Rose Gold Grande Date Power...
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso 18k Rose Gold Grande Date Power...
£9,974
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Center London
291
UK
Rolex Datejust President Ladies 18k Champagne Pinstripe Dial...
Rolex Datejust President Ladies 18k Champagne Pinstripe Dial...
£3,900
Free shipping
Seller
Tempvs Ltd
41
UK
Chopard "H" 13/6621 Box & Papers Full diamond...
Chopard "H" 13/6621 Box & Papers Full diamond...
£6,995
Seller
Vintage & Prestige
13
UK
Rolex Limited edition Rolex GMT Master II - Men's watch -...
Rolex Limited edition Rolex GMT Master II - Men's watch -...
£20,827
Estimated price
Seller
Catawiki BV
 

Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.

Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.
Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.
A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.
A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.
Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.
Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.
Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.
An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.

Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.
The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.
The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.
Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.
The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.
Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.
Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.

Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.