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Cartier 18k White Gold Tank Americaine Chronoflex B&P W26033L1
TOP
Cartier 18k White Gold Tank Americaine Chronoflex B&P W26033L1
£8,500
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
109
UK
Harry Winston excenter
TOP
Harry Winston excenter
£25,000
Seller
EXCLUSIVE WATCHES LTD
 
UK
Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Gold
Linde Werdelin SpidoSpeed Gold
£29,363
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Vacheron Constantin Very Rare 1970s  Lozenge Pave Diamond Dial...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Very Rare 1970s Lozenge Pave Diamond Dial...
£62,685
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
 
US
Franck Muller Conquistador Cortez 10000CC18k Yellow Gold Men's...
TOP
Franck Muller Conquistador Cortez 10000CC18k Yellow Gold Men's...
£10,508
Free shipping
Seller
Chronostore
113
US
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar
TOP
IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar
£14,381
Seller
Heritage Jewelry and Loan
7
US
Rolex 18K Yellow Gold Yacht-Master Champ Dial - w/ Box & Papers
TOP
Rolex 18K Yellow Gold Yacht-Master Champ Dial - w/ Box & Papers
£12,902
Seller
Austins Watches Inc.
127
US
Piaget NOS Ladies Coussinet G0A19520 18K Solid Yellow Gold...
TOP
Piaget NOS Ladies Coussinet G0A19520 18K Solid Yellow Gold...
£3,131
Free shipping
Seller
Luxury Horology
129
US
Patek Philippe Patek 5940r Perpetual Calendar
TOP
Patek Philippe Patek 5940r Perpetual Calendar
£41,852
Seller
MKS Luxury LLC
US
Cartier Tank Solo + Fully Serviced + 1 Year Warranty
TOP
Cartier Tank Solo + Fully Serviced + 1 Year Warranty
£2,995
Seller
Time Rediscovered Ltd
7
UK
Hublot Big Bang 44 mm Rose Gold (serviced 2017)
TOP
Hublot Big Bang 44 mm Rose Gold (serviced 2017)
£13,000
Seller
David Summerfield Ltd
22
UK
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Gold
Linde Werdelin SpidoLite Gold
£22,940
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Van Cleef & Arpels 1940 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SAPPHIRE 18KT YG...
TOP
Van Cleef & Arpels 1940 VAN CLEEF & ARPELS SAPPHIRE 18KT YG...
£14,012
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
 
US
Patek Philippe 5270G Grand Complications Perpetual Calendar...
TOP
Patek Philippe 5270G Grand Complications Perpetual Calendar...
£76,750
Free shipping
Seller
WatchCollectors.co.uk
12
UK
Rolex Day-Date 1803 - vintage rare dial
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 1803 - vintage rare dial
£5,250
Seller
Tempo and Time Ltd
12
UK
Rolex Day-Date Factory Diamond Blue Dial18K White Gold Mens Watch
TOP
Rolex Day-Date Factory Diamond Blue Dial18K White Gold Mens Watch
£10,995
Free shipping
Seller
WT Time Pieces
25
UK
Rolex Daytona 18ct Rose Gold 116505(Rolex serviced December 2017)
TOP
Rolex Daytona 18ct Rose Gold 116505(Rolex serviced December 2017)
£19,500
Free shipping
Seller
ChronoEdge
86
UK
Patek Philippe Patek 5200g Gondolo
TOP
Patek Philippe Patek 5200g Gondolo
£24,521
Seller
MKS Luxury LLC
US
A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Richard Lange Perpetual Calendar Terraluna
£140,809
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
264
UK
Rolex Submariner Date 18ct Yellow Gold Black November 2017
TOP
Rolex Submariner Date 18ct Yellow Gold Black November 2017
£21,400
Seller
David Summerfield Ltd
22
UK
Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Gold 3DTP Carbon
Linde Werdelin Oktopus Moon Gold 3DTP Carbon
£31,199
BrandBoutique Member
Linde Werdelin LTD
Chopard Happy Diamond Tanzanite 18k Ref 20/4735 Cuff watch
TOP
Chopard Happy Diamond Tanzanite 18k Ref 20/4735 Cuff watch
£4,425
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
 
US
Patek Philippe Nautilus 18k Yellow Gold Gents 5712/1A-001 -...
TOP
Patek Philippe Nautilus 18k Yellow Gold Gents 5712/1A-001 -...
£33,495
Seller
Xupes.com
69
UK
Bovet "Perpetual Calendar Retrograde" 42 mm Amadeo
TOP
Bovet "Perpetual Calendar Retrograde" 42 mm Amadeo
£11,210
Seller
Noblesse LP
17
UK
Rolex Lady-Datejust 18K Yellow Gold 26mm Diamond Dial &Bezel...
TOP
Rolex Lady-Datejust 18K Yellow Gold 26mm Diamond Dial &Bezel...
£13,995
Free shipping
Seller
WT Time Pieces
25
UK
Rolex Yacht-Master
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master
£13,000
Free shipping
Seller
Chase Hattan
12
UK
Rolex Factory Rolex Lady DateJust Pearlmaster 80299 18K White...
TOP
Rolex Factory Rolex Lady DateJust Pearlmaster 80299 18K White...
£31,950
Free shipping
Seller
WatchCollectors.co.uk
12
UK
Rolex Datejust President Lady 18k Mother of Pearl Dial, Ref:...
TOP
Rolex Datejust President Lady 18k Mother of Pearl Dial, Ref:...
£6,500
Free shipping
Seller
Tempvs Ltd
73
UK
Rolex Datejust 28mm 18ct Yellow Diamond Cornflower Blue
TOP
Rolex Datejust 28mm 18ct Yellow Diamond Cornflower Blue
£19,650
Seller
David Summerfield Ltd
22
UK
Rolex Yacht-Master II Yellow Gold 116688 44mm
TOP
Rolex Yacht-Master II Yellow Gold 116688 44mm
£23,950
Free shipping
Seller
Global Watch Shop
UK
Cartier 1960s CARTIER AMETHYST & 18KT YG PICTURE FRAME BOUDOIR...
TOP
Cartier 1960s CARTIER AMETHYST & 18KT YG PICTURE FRAME BOUDOIR...
£5,752
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
 
US
Piaget Emperador Cushion-Shaped
Piaget Emperador Cushion-Shaped
£155,231
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
264
UK
Chopard Mille Miglia Rose Gold GMT Chrono 250 pieces  Box &...
TOP
Chopard Mille Miglia Rose Gold GMT Chrono 250 pieces Box &...
£15,995
Free shipping
Seller
Vintage & Prestige
13
UK
IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater Skeleton 18K White Gold Watch
TOP
IWC Portugieser Minute Repeater Skeleton 18K White Gold Watch
£54,995
Free shipping
Seller
WT Time Pieces
25
UK
Audemars Piguet Day Date 18k Yellow Gold
TOP
Audemars Piguet Day Date 18k Yellow Gold
£4,328
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Center London
503
UK
Rolex Vintage Gold Silver Dial Bubbleback Oyster Perpetual 6085
TOP
Rolex Vintage Gold Silver Dial Bubbleback Oyster Perpetual 6085
£5,750
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
109
UK
Rolex Day-Date with Stunning Rare String Dial Ref: 18038
TOP
Rolex Day-Date with Stunning Rare String Dial Ref: 18038
£16,500
Free shipping
Seller
Tempvs Ltd
73
UK
Rolex Day-Date 36 18ct Rose Gold Diamond Dial
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 36 18ct Rose Gold Diamond Dial
£16,450
Seller
David Summerfield Ltd
22
UK
Rolex  18038 Day-Date yellow gold ARABIC date wheel
TOP
Rolex 18038 Day-Date yellow gold ARABIC date wheel
£7,250
Free shipping
Seller
M&J Watches Ltd
17
UK
Chopard 18kt White Gold Internally Flawless Happy Diamond
TOP
Chopard 18kt White Gold Internally Flawless Happy Diamond
£16,224
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
 
US
Breguet Tradition GMT
TOP
Breguet Tradition GMT
£25,489
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
264
UK
IWC Automatic 18k Gold Cal. 8541B
TOP
IWC Automatic 18k Gold Cal. 8541B
£2,449
Seller
Time Rediscovered Ltd
7
UK
Breguet Marine Chronograph 2015 - white gold
TOP
Breguet Marine Chronograph 2015 - white gold
£11,250
Seller
Tempo and Time Ltd
12
UK
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Mens 18K White Gold Watch
TOP
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse Mens 18K White Gold Watch
£14,500
Free shipping
Seller
WT Time Pieces
25
UK
Patek Philippe Factory Service Sealed  5036/1R-010 Annual...
TOP
Patek Philippe Factory Service Sealed 5036/1R-010 Annual...
£32,500
Free shipping
Seller
WatchCollectors.co.uk
12
UK
Bulgari Ladies B.Zero 1 18k Yellow Gold, Ref: BZ22G
TOP
Bulgari Ladies B.Zero 1 18k Yellow Gold, Ref: BZ22G
£1,900
Free shipping
Seller
Tempvs Ltd
73
UK
Rolex Lady-DateJust 26 18ct White Gold Diamond
TOP
Rolex Lady-DateJust 26 18ct White Gold Diamond
£14,000
Seller
David Summerfield Ltd
22
UK
Rolex 18k Yellow Gold O/P Champage Dial Vintage Date Gents 1509
TOP
Rolex 18k Yellow Gold O/P Champage Dial Vintage Date Gents 1509
£6,950
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
109
UK
Jaeger-LeCoultre MINT JAEGER LE COULTRE 1960s 18KT WHITE GOLD...
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre MINT JAEGER LE COULTRE 1960s 18KT WHITE GOLD...
£2,212
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
 
US
Vacheron Constantin Mint Dropped Lugs 1946 18k Gold + Extract...
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Mint Dropped Lugs 1946 18k Gold + Extract...
£4,495
Seller
Time Rediscovered Ltd
7
UK
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon White Gold
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Moon White Gold
£13,412
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
264
UK
Panerai Radiomir Base 18k Rose Gold  45mm  (Full Set +Strap)
TOP
Panerai Radiomir Base 18k Rose Gold 45mm (Full Set +Strap)
£8,477
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Center London
503
UK
IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar IW503202(IWC Serviced 2017)
TOP
IWC Portuguese Perpetual Calendar IW503202(IWC Serviced 2017)
£16,500
Free shipping
Seller
ChronoEdge
86
UK
Patek Philippe 18k Yellow Gold Calatrava, Ref: 3802
TOP
Patek Philippe 18k Yellow Gold Calatrava, Ref: 3802
£11,850
Free shipping
Seller
Tempvs Ltd
73
UK
Cvstos Challenge-R 50 HF
TOP
Cvstos Challenge-R 50 HF
£7,743
Seller
Noblesse LP
17
UK
Rolex 18k Y/G Honeycomb Precision Tear Drop Lugs Wristwatch 4514
TOP
Rolex 18k Y/G Honeycomb Precision Tear Drop Lugs Wristwatch 4514
£5,500
Free shipping
Seller
Watches & Jewellery of Bond Street Ltd
109
UK
Jaeger-LeCoultre 1950s Jaeger Le Coultre Calender Disc 14Kt...
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre 1950s Jaeger Le Coultre Calender Disc 14Kt...
£3,319
Free shipping
Seller
Ye Olde Timekeepers, Inc.
 
US
Vacheron Constantin 33051 "Les Essentielles" Collection
TOP
Vacheron Constantin 33051 "Les Essentielles" Collection
£2,499
Seller
Private Seller
 
UK
Patek Philippe Nautilus
Patek Philippe Nautilus
£42,000
Seller
Broadwalk Group Ltd.
 
UK
A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual English dial
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual English dial
£46,810
Free shipping
Seller
WatchesofMayfair.com
264
UK
Chanel Shanerura 18k White Gold Factory Diamonds
TOP
Chanel Shanerura 18k White Gold Factory Diamonds
£7,665
Free shipping
Seller
Watch Center London
503
UK
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Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.

Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.
Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.
A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.
A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.
Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.
Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.
Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.
An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.

Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.
The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.
The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.
Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.
The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.
Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.
Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.

Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.