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Corum Admiral's Cup (submodel) A277/00187 New Rose gold 48mm Automatic
TOP
Corum Admiral's Cup Tides Automatic
£17,590
Professional dealer
72
HK
Patek Philippe Calatrava 5119G-001 Very good White gold 36mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London
TOP
Patek Philippe Calatrava White Gold 5119G-001
£13,500
Free shipping
Professional dealer
815
UK
Rolex Day-Date 40 228235 Unworn Rose gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 40 Rose Gold Diamond Dial 228235
£39,950
Free shipping
Professional dealer
815
UK
Vacheron Constantin 1972 33172/000G-9775 Very good White gold Manual winding
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Prestige 1972 18K White Gold
£21,946
Professional dealer
JP
Vacheron Constantin Overseas 12050-16050 Very good Yellow gold 24.5mm Automatic
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Overseas 18K Automatik Damenuhr Ref....
£9,970
Sold by Chrono24
DE
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control 140.2.80.S Very good Rose gold 37mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
TOP
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Perpetual Calendar Rose Gold...
£10,950
Free shipping
Professional dealer
815
UK
Rolex Daytona 116508 Unworn Yellow gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Daytona green
£60,526
Professional dealer
146
PT
Tudor Black Bay M79018V-0001 New Yellow gold 39mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
TOP
Tudor Black Bay 58 M79018V Yellow Gold, Unworn UK watch 2021
£13,750
Free shipping
Professional dealer
64
UK
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia 216.026 Good White gold 37mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Manual Wind 216.026 White Gold
£9,925
Professional dealer
519
UK
Rolex Daytona 116508 Very good Yellow gold 40mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Daytona
£63,688
Professional dealer
45
ES
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26320OR.OO.D002CR.01 Very good Rose gold 41mm Automatic United Kingdom, LONDON
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Rose Gold on Rubber Strap
£44,250
Professional dealer
32
UK
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar 5327J-001 Unworn Yellow gold 39mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Grand Complication 39mm....
£63,950
Professional dealer
18
UK
Vacheron Constantin Yellow gold 25mm Manual winding United Kingdom, Oxford
TOP
Vacheron Constantin Vintage 1950’s Manual Winding 18k - Fully...
£2,150
Free shipping
Professional dealer
344
UK
Girard Perregaux Ferrari 8020 Very good Yellow gold 38mm Automatic
TOP
Girard Perregaux Ferrari 18K Rosegold Chronograph 8020 Automatik
£4,700
Sold by Chrono24
DE
Chopard Your Hour 10/6805 Very good White gold 24mm Quartz United Kingdom, London
TOP
Chopard Your Hour White Gold Mother of Pearl Dial Diamond Set...
£9,500
Free shipping
Professional dealer
815
UK
Rolex GMT-Master II 126715CHNR-0001 New Rose gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, Liverpool
TOP
Rolex GMT-Master II
£36,000
Free shipping
Professional dealer
 
UK
Rolex Day-Date 40 228235 Very good Rose gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, Essex
Rolex Day-Date 40 228235 with Box and Papers
£38,795
Free shipping
Professional dealer
510
UK
Rolex Day-Date 36 18238 Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
TOP
Rolex Day-Date 18238 1990
£7,950
Professional dealer
519
UK
Rolex Day-Date II 218239 Very good White gold 41mm Automatic
TOP
Rolex Day-Date II
£35,138
Professional dealer
45
ES
Rolex Daytona 116515ln Unworn Rose gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, LONDON
Rolex Daytona Oyster Flex Rose Gold Chocolate Dial Rubber...
£34,495
Professional dealer
32
UK
Rolex Daytona 116508 Very good Yellow gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Rolex 40m. Daytona 116508 Yellow Gold 18k Box & Papers 2016
£45,200
Professional dealer
18
UK
Franck Muller Casablanca Very good Rose gold 39mm Automatic United Kingdom, Oxford
TOP
Franck Muller Casablanca Cintree Curvex - Box & Papers
£8,950
Free shipping
Professional dealer
344
UK
Breguet Classique 3130 Very good White gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
Breguet Classique 18K (0,750) Weissgold Automatik Herrenuhr...
£11,288
Sold by Chrono24
DE
Rolex 1511 Very good Yellow gold 34mm Automatic United Kingdom, Esher
TOP
Rolex Date 1511 - Rare Model - 18K Gold - Rare Bark Bezel -...
£4,074
Professional dealer
16
UK
Rolex Daytona 116509 New White gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, Liverpool
TOP
Rolex Daytona
£43,352
Free shipping
Professional dealer
 
UK
Rolex Day-Date 36 118239 Very good White gold 36mm Automatic United Kingdom, Essex
Rolex Day-Date 36 118239 with Box and Papers
£19,995
Free shipping
Professional dealer
510
UK
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 109.032 Very good Rose gold 38.5mm Manual winding United Kingdom, London
TOP
A. Lange & Söhne 1 Moonphase Ref 109.032 Rose Gold
£21,900
Professional dealer
519
UK
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar 5396G-011 Unworn White gold 38mm Automatic
TOP
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar
£30,012
Professional dealer
128
CH
Rolex Sky-Dweller 326938 New Yellow gold 42mm Automatic United Kingdom, LONDON
Rolex Sky-Dweller Yellow Gold Black Dial Unworn
£39,850
Professional dealer
32
UK
Rolex Submariner Date 116618LB Unworn Yellow gold 40mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Rolex 116618LB Submariner Date 40mm. Yellow Gold 18k. with Box...
£32,988
Professional dealer
18
UK
Franck Muller Mariner Very good Rose gold 42mm Automatic United Kingdom, Oxford
TOP
Franck Muller Mariner 18k Rose Gold 8080 - Box & Papers
£8,950
Free shipping
Professional dealer
344
UK
IWC Yacht Club R811A Very good Yellow gold 36mm Automatic
TOP
IWC Schaffhausen Yacht Club 18K (0,750) Gold Automatik...
£3,558
Sold by Chrono24
DE
Cartier Tank Américaine 1710 Very good Yellow gold 19mm Quartz
TOP
Cartier Tank Americaine Mid 82grs. 18K Yellow Gold Automatic...
£7,309
Professional dealer
28
US
Rolex Day-Date 36 18238 Fair Yellow gold 36mm Automatic United Kingdom, London
Rolex Day-Date President
£14,795
Professional dealer
 
UK

Gold Watches: Elegant and Valuable

A gold watch is the epitome of luxury. For thousands of years, this precious metal has been a symbol of permanence and wealth. Most gold watches are elegant dress watches, though some have a sportier design.


Features

  • 18-karat or 750 gold indicates it's 75% gold
  • 14-karat gold or 585 gold is less common
  • Many gold-electroplated vintage watches
  • Watches with modern PVD coating are in the lower price range
  • Some manufacturers offer their own alloys such as Everose or Sedna gold

Gold Cases: The Mixture Makes the Difference

When gold comes to mind, people most often think of yellow gold. However, many types of gold are used in the watch industry, such as white, pink, and red gold . There are also in-house alloys made by manufacturers like Omega's Sedna gold and Rolex's Everose, both red gold alloys. A unique alloy is Hublot's Magic Gold, which combines yellow gold and ceramic, making it extremely scratch resistant.

Technically, a timepiece can only be considered a gold watch if the case is made of solid gold . However, you can count watches in a lower price range as well, as their cases are made of stainless steel which is then coated in gold.

A gold watch is almost always produced from an metal alloy. Pure gold, which you find in the form of coins or bars available for purchase, is used to plate the surfaces of cases made of a different material. As it's relatively soft, some manufacturers mix it with other metals in-house in order to make it harder and more scratch resistant or to give it another hue.

A value of one karat means that the material is composed of 1/24th gold. Pure gold is thus 24 karat. Watch cases with the highest percentage of gold are 18-karat cases , a value equal to 750 gold. The 750 represents the percentage of pure gold out of 1,000. In a 750 alloy, 75% of the material is pure gold, while the rest consists of other metals. Silver and copper are mixed together with yellow gold. The amount varies, however, in order to slightly change the tone of the yellow gold.

Red and pink gold have a much larger percentage of copper than silver, which gives the gold its reddish-pinkish hue. White gold, on the other hand, has more silver than copper. Particularly valuable 18-karat white gold watches are made with an alloy containing platinum or palladium.

Cases made of 14-karat gold (585 gold) can also be found, although most manufacturers offer 18-karat gold watches today. This applies to watches in both mid and upper price ranges, such as those from Longines, Maurice Lacroix, and Tissot.

Some manufacturers use gold-colored coatings that resemble gold, but are actually something else entirely. The most common of these methods uses a PVD (physical vapor deposition) coating. During this process, the coating is applied via vacuum deposition. PVD coatings can also be made of gold and are regarded as very scratch resistant.

An alternative is electroplating gold on stainless steel cases. The gold layer is very thin; 20 microns is the norm. One micron is 1/1,000th of a millimeter. The gold plating is either 18 or 24-karat gold and prone to scratches, but can be redone if necessary. The PVD method has grown in popularity in recent years, so you will most frequently encounter electroplated watches in the vintage market.


Buying Advice

If you want to buy a gold watch, then you should pay attention to the karats. An 18-karat gold watch is an 18-karat gold watch, regardless of the manufacturer.

The price difference between gold and stainless steel versions of the same watch can be quite considerable. A stainless steel Rolex Submariner with a date display costs about 7,000 euros new, while a yellow gold version in the same condition costs 21,000 euros.

The price and value of an 18-karat gold watch also depends on the price of gold. The market price varies, but has usually been over $1,000 for one troy ounce (31 grams) of gold over the last few years. In the summer of 2011, it shot up to around $1,900. It is unlikely that the price will drop below $1,000. The price of gold watches has gone up simply due to their material worth. In the 1990s, the price was still oscillating between $300 and $400. Since gold also functions as a replacement currency in crisis situations, gold watches are a relatively secure investment. In the worst case, the watch retains value based on the weight of its gold. For this to be the case, however, one should imagine that times are tough and the gold price is thus very high.

Normally, the collector's value and the manufacturer's reputation play a deciding role in determining the price of a timepiece. Gold watches from an independent manufacturer powered by in-house calibers cost the most. Rolex's Submariner isn't the only expensive gold watch they offer. Other series have gold models, such as the Daytona or the Day-Date. The Day-Date is offered with a white gold, yellow gold, or Everose alloy, and the cases are available in many different sizes.

The story is similar with Omega. Their diving watch Seamaster is available in 18-karat gold, and the company offers a large selection of gold watches in their De Ville collection.

Patek Philippe is the ultimate manufacturer of gold watches. No other renowned Swiss manufacturer relies so much on the precious metal like the Genevan family business. The Calatrava is Patek Philippe's most classic series.

Patek Philippe is one of the few manufacturers who doesn't only make the case out of gold, but important parts of the movement as well. A good example is the rotor of an automatic movement, which is often decorated with engravings. Rolex also uses white gold indices - even on the models with a stainless steel case. Not just for aesthetic reasons, either: Gold doesn't tarnish.


Swiss Dominance

According to tradition, the first solid gold wristwatch was made by Girad-Perregaux and was delivered to the German Emperor William I in 1879. Now, around 500,000 gold watches are produced each year, with 90% of them being made in Switzerland. Rolex plays a prominent role in this, as they alone produce 200,000 of these gold watches. In one year, Rolex produces around 800,000 watches, making gold watches a quarter of their total production. The company produces cases in their own foundry. Gold plays an even more important role for the luxury manufacturer Patek Philippe, however. Gold watches dominate Patek's portfolio; there are only a few stainless steel models available. Usually, it's the other way around. Gold remains an expensive exception for most companies. A popular compromise is to create a bicolor watch, where parts of the case and bracelet are made of stainless steel and others of gold. Rolex calls this Rolesor.