Moritz Grossmann is one of the rising stars in the German watchmaking industry. Luxury watches from this manufacturer, who not only produce their own movements, but also their own hands, are considered some of the best in Germany.
Christine Hutter, a skilled watchmaker, founded the company Grossmann Uhren GmbH in 2008 with its headquarters in Glashütte, Germany. The small town has been the center of German haute horlogerie since 1845. World-renowned manufacturers such as A. Lange & Söhne and Glashütte Original also have their headquarters there.
The company was named after the German watchmaker Karl Moritz Großmann. Großmann came to Glashütte in 1854 to produce pocket watches, pendulum clocks, and chronometers. He was one of the most important representatives of his craft and thus, timepieces created by Großmann are highly sought-after collector's pieces. He promoted the founding of the Glashütter Watchmaking School in 1878. Important records of how to construct and regulate watch movements remain part of his legacy today.
In 2010, just two years after being founded, Moritz Grossmann presented their first wristwatch. The three-hand watch Benu had a limited run of 100 and was made of rose gold. The company now offers a wider collection of model series ranging from elegant women's watches to intricate tourbillon watches. The company names their collections after the German names for Egyptian gods: Benu (Bennu), Atum, and Tefnut, for example. Unlike many other manufacturers, Moritz Grossmann produces more than 85% of each of their calibers themselves. At least 50% of a watch's caliber must be manufactured in Glashütte for the inscription "Glashütte" to appear on its dial.
Do you want to join the exclusive circle of Glashütte watch owners and support a young company at the same time? Then look no further than the watches from Moritz Grossmann. The company was founded in 2008, meaning there aren't many pre-owned watches available. Prices for a new gold watch start around 17,000 euros. The first stainless steel models from the Atum collection were limited to 150 copies and cost around 12,000 euros each. Gold versions are more expensive, costing around 30,000 euros. Watches from the Benu series are likewise available in this price range, and also feature a power reserve display. The white gold Tefnut Lady with a diamond-set bezel costs around 28,000 euros. Moritz Grossmann's masterpiece, however, is the Benu Tourbillon. This watch costs almost 170,000 euros. Moritz Grossmann places high value on their caliber's ability to be serviced. This means that in the future, watchmakers will still be able to easily service the movements. This characteristic also increases the value of the watch.
The Benu model, presented in 2010, was the first watch produced by Moritz Grossmann. Its name comes from the German name for the Egyptian god Bennu. In Egyptian mythology, Bennu is represented as a divine bird. He appears as a gray heron, a migratory bird, and is a symbol for new beginnings. The watch was also a symbol of a new beginning. With its classic design and technological finesse, it connects Grossmann's legacy with the present. The case is made of platinum or white or rose gold. The dial is white and has a small seconds at six o'clock. Arabic numerals serve as hour markers and thin, hand-finished hands are annealed to a brown or brown-violet hue.
The Benu Power Reserve stays true to the series' look. A highlight of this men's watch is its rectangular power reserve display located under the brand inscription at 12 o'clock. The two-color display shows you when the watch needs to be wound. The timepiece is available in platinum or white or rose gold. You have the option of a light or gray dial and the hands are made of polished stainless steel.
The most refined model in the Benu line is the Benu Tourbillon. Master watchmaker Abraham-Louis Breguet invented the tourbillon mechanism in 1795. It compensates for deviations due to gravity by having its swing and escapement systems stored in a cage which rotates on its own axis. Usually, such cages make one full rotation every minute, however, the Benu's tourbillon requires three minutes to make a full rotation. The construction of its cage is based on a design by Alfred Helwig, a Glashütte-based watchmaker. In 1920, Helwig invented what is known as the flying tourbillon, an improvement on Breguet's tourbillon. Flying tourbillons don't have a top bridge and are only anchored at the bottom. The Benu Tourbillon's patented balance stop allows the wearer to set the watch to the exact second. Lastly, sapphire glass offers a clear view of the rotating cage through the dial.
Atum is the ancient Egyptian god of creation who created himself out of nothing abd symbolizes the source of all things. This watch is the epitome of traditional craftsmanship and has a simple, elegant, and timeless design. Stick indices are used instead of Roman or Arabic numerals, and similar to the Benu, the Atum has a subsidiary seconds dial at six o'clock. You have the choice between a stainless steel or rose or white gold case, while the dial is available in white, gray, blue, or black. Moritz Grossmann produces their own hands. These are made of stainless steel and are either polished or annealed to a brown or brown-violet hue. The strap is available as a brown or black alligator leather strap.
The Atum is also available in a version with a two-color power reserve display. Similar to the Benu, the long, thin rectangular power reserve is located under the Moritz Grossmann logo. This version's case is made of either white or rose gold with silver dials. Their stainless steel hands are either polished or annealed brown.
Tefnut is the ancient Egyptian goddess of rain and the daughter of Atum. Accordingly, models from the Tefnut line resemble those from the Atum line. The series features thin stainless steel or rose or white gold cases with anthracite or silver dials. Moritz Grossmann designed delicate polished or brown hands especially for this series and makes them by hand. The hour markers are cambered. Unlike the Atum, the Tefnut has Arabic numerals at twelve and six.
The Tefnut Lady, the women's version of this watch, is available in white or rose gold. Unlike the men's models, it has Arabic numerals as hour markers. The numerals get smaller as you move from 12 o'clock down the dial on both sides. Thus, the 12 is larger than the 3 and the 9, for example, and the 5 and 7 are smaller still. A diamond set in a gold chaton is located at six o'clock. The middle of the mother-of-pearl dial has a starburst pattern guilloche. The bezel is set with 80 brilliant diamonds, lending the watch an elegant look.
When Moritz Grossmann presented their first wristwatch, the Benu, in 2010, they simultaneously presented their first in-house caliber. The manual-winding caliber 100.0 serves as a base for movements with power reserves. The 100.0 is finely hand engraved and features a 2/3 plate construction held apart from the main plate by small pillars. This design makes the watch much easier to service. The manual winding components are also completely removable. The main and 2/3 plates are made of German silver, a material also used by A. Lange & Söhne. The 2/3 plate has a semi-circular opening, which is typical of Moritz Grossmann. This leaves you with a clear view of the balance wheel. Karl Moritz Großmann himself used this construction for his plates and other pieces, and the semicircle is a part of the company's logo today.
To set themselves apart from other manufacturers such as Nomos, another rising company from Glashütte, Moritz Grossmann uses clear sapphires as jewel bearings instead of rubies. They also color their screws differently. Most watch manufacturers in Glashütte use blued screws, but Moritz Grossmann heats their screws to a different temperature. This gives them a brown-violet hue instead of a blue one.
It's also hard to miss the caliber's hand-engraved cantilevered balance cock. The movement is adjusted via a Grossmann micrometer screw. When the watchmaker turns the screw, he or she can precisely change the length of the balance spring, thereby influencing the beat of the watch. Moritz Grossmann adjusts the caliber 100.0 in five positions.
Similar to A. Lange & Söhne, Moritz Grossmann builds each one of their movements twice. After the movements are built for the first time, watchmakers test all functions and perfect the movement. Then, they take it apart. Afterwards, they rebuild it once again and refine the parts, a process known as finishing. This includes adding the sunburst design to the barrel.
The movement consists of 188 parts in total, 17 of them jewel bearings. Three of the sapphires are set in screwed gold chatons. The balance wheel has a frequency of 18,000 vibrations per hour (A/h) and the balance spring features a Breguet overcoil shaped after a Gerstenberger design. Gustav Gerstenberger was a German watchmaker who was specialized in making precision index adjusters and further developed the Breguet overcoil. The movement's power reserve lasts 42 hours, and thanks to the balance stop, you can set the watch to the exact second.
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